Ignition Control Module Removal?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 215
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From: Bay Area
Ignition Control Module Removal?
1990 E150 302 V8. My tests led me to ICM replacement on side of distributor.
I checked the search function w/ no specific answer. (Is it just me?). And I made the mistake of handing the Chiltons / Haynes repair manual to my son, who now has no idea where it is, so...... a couple of questions.
1). I did it just in case anyway, but is battery disconnection advised?
2). Since I can't get to the bottom screw of the ICM even with my special Ford tool, do I remove the hold down bolt and just lift the dist. enough to reach the screw?
3). I marked the rotor position with a permanent marker dot on rotor and side of dist. case. Do I need another mark somewhere?
Thanks, I'm learning.
I checked the search function w/ no specific answer. (Is it just me?). And I made the mistake of handing the Chiltons / Haynes repair manual to my son, who now has no idea where it is, so...... a couple of questions.
1). I did it just in case anyway, but is battery disconnection advised?
2). Since I can't get to the bottom screw of the ICM even with my special Ford tool, do I remove the hold down bolt and just lift the dist. enough to reach the screw?
3). I marked the rotor position with a permanent marker dot on rotor and side of dist. case. Do I need another mark somewhere?
Thanks, I'm learning.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
You don't need to disconnect the negative battery cable, if the key is off, there is no power there.
Mark the base of the dizzy to the block relationship.
You can then loosen the hold down bolt, and just turn the dizzy to where you can reach that screw. You will not need to lift it up.
After the ICM replacement, just turn the dizzy back to the base mark, and double check you rotor mark, and tighten down the hold down bolt.
Mark the base of the dizzy to the block relationship.
You can then loosen the hold down bolt, and just turn the dizzy to where you can reach that screw. You will not need to lift it up.
After the ICM replacement, just turn the dizzy back to the base mark, and double check you rotor mark, and tighten down the hold down bolt.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Bay Area
Well Wildman25, I made my marks but then decided, what the heck! I pulled the whole distributor and ordered a new one that comes with the PIP sensor installed. The shaft had a little play so for $100 bucks I said what the hey. Can't beat new.
After I get it running I have to go back to troubleshooting the original codes it was holding. If I get the install right and it runs again, lol.
After I get it running I have to go back to troubleshooting the original codes it was holding. If I get the install right and it runs again, lol.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 425
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From: Fayetteville, TN
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
I don't blame you for a new replacement, I've done the same, and replaced with a new one for $90. Same thing, wobbling rotor shaft.
But, before you pulled the dizzy, did you set the crank on TDC??
If you didn't, you'll have some major problems getting the timing set.
Also, if you know, Check the cam gear that's on the original, to the New cam gear on the new disturber, if you had the cast iron gear on that 302, you'll need to have a cast iron gear, and not the steel gear on the new one.
But, before you pulled the dizzy, did you set the crank on TDC??
If you didn't, you'll have some major problems getting the timing set.
Also, if you know, Check the cam gear that's on the original, to the New cam gear on the new disturber, if you had the cast iron gear on that 302, you'll need to have a cast iron gear, and not the steel gear on the new one.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Bay Area
Well, I dropped the new 'dizzy' in (about 8 times before my marks lined up) and had an 'oh no' moment when it wouldn't start. But then I noticed the plug to my ICM laying there. Plugged in and varoooom, started right up and idles pretty good.
I guess I'm too dumb to know what I don't know.
I even had a moment where I thought a miracle had happened and the check engine light had gone out. But noooooo. Code 33 to deal with next.
I guess I'm too dumb to know what I don't know.
I even had a moment where I thought a miracle had happened and the check engine light had gone out. But noooooo. Code 33 to deal with next.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
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Yea, it takes a couple of tries to get the dizzy/rotor to line up, dang counter-clockwise rotation..........
But......did you check, set the timing??
Should be 10*BTDC, with the spout removed.
Running it too long with the timing off could cause some other problems.
But......did you check, set the timing??
Should be 10*BTDC, with the spout removed.
Running it too long with the timing off could cause some other problems.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Bay Area
Can you expound on that answer a bit? What other problems related to timing?
And by 'spout' do you mean the airbox stuff?
I'm a bit confused by how the timing could change if my marks lined up perfectly.
I'll have to borrow a timing light. Thanks again. I'm slow but I'm getting there.
And by 'spout' do you mean the airbox stuff?
I'm a bit confused by how the timing could change if my marks lined up perfectly.
I'll have to borrow a timing light. Thanks again. I'm slow but I'm getting there.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Chicago area
The timing can change because the dist. was changed. Any time you pull the dist. you should check the timing. The spout connector is a small plug in the wire harness coming from the dist. Follow the wires as they leave the dist. and you should find it. It comes out of the socket it's in. Doing so the timing will go back to what ever the dist. is positioned to be. You need to rotate the dist. until you have at least 10 deg. BTDC.
I few degrees more advanced is sometimes possible depending on a number of conditions, such as fuel octane, engine load, carbon build up in the cylinders, EGR function, etc. My 5.8L is set to 14 BTDC with no issues and it runs better there!
I few degrees more advanced is sometimes possible depending on a number of conditions, such as fuel octane, engine load, carbon build up in the cylinders, EGR function, etc. My 5.8L is set to 14 BTDC with no issues and it runs better there!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Bay Area
Thanks jimbbski. I found the spout plug. Don't have a timing light yet. So to be ready I got my flashlight out and looked. (and looked and looked). I can't see any timing marks yet. (not readily visible like my '71 Chevy pick up).
I'm trying to work out an EGR code 33 too, so I'm looking for vac. leaks etc. I used half a can of carb cleaner and got no idle speed change. No rotten rubber found yet. Darn there's a lot of little wires and what I assume are sensors. Wish I could just slide the engine forward and work on it, lol.
I'm also working on a fuel delivery issue with another van at the same time, so I spent a quite few hours in the darn hot sun today. 0 psi fuel pressure.
I have a very important client meeting tomorrow morning, so I have to relax for awhile. I don't want to be preoccupied with this tomorrow.
I'm trying to work out an EGR code 33 too, so I'm looking for vac. leaks etc. I used half a can of carb cleaner and got no idle speed change. No rotten rubber found yet. Darn there's a lot of little wires and what I assume are sensors. Wish I could just slide the engine forward and work on it, lol.
I'm also working on a fuel delivery issue with another van at the same time, so I spent a quite few hours in the darn hot sun today. 0 psi fuel pressure.
I have a very important client meeting tomorrow morning, so I have to relax for awhile. I don't want to be preoccupied with this tomorrow.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
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Yes, jimbbski nailed it. 
Should have told you that the spout plug was on the drivers side, along side the fender, little white plug. What that does, is takes the ECM out of the loop, the 'auto-timing' is disconnected, so that you can manually set the timing.
The timing marks are very hard to find, best from underneath, and once you find the "0" mark that, and then the 10* mark (the crank turns clock-wise)
I always mark them with a paint pen, then there on there for good.
Then looking down from the top, right side, you'll see the timing gauge.
You'll need a regular "old fashion" timing light for setting the timing.
Wish I could say that........I spent 2 hours working in 5* weather on a door proxi reader......and that was up from our low of -5* this morning 
Should have told you that the spout plug was on the drivers side, along side the fender, little white plug. What that does, is takes the ECM out of the loop, the 'auto-timing' is disconnected, so that you can manually set the timing.
The timing marks are very hard to find, best from underneath, and once you find the "0" mark that, and then the 10* mark (the crank turns clock-wise)
I always mark them with a paint pen, then there on there for good.
Then looking down from the top, right side, you'll see the timing gauge.
You'll need a regular "old fashion" timing light for setting the timing.
so I spent a quite few hours in the darn hot sun today
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Bay Area
Thanks Subford, thats exactly where I found it. My spout plug is actually an off white, can't really see it in the pic. But if a guy follows your lead they are going to find it.
Wildman25, I had just wrung the last drop of sweat outta my brow for the day when I realized the next step was to get back under the truck. That's when I called it, lol. OMG, 5 degrees? I think there's a law here in CA, NO work below 45 degrees, lol. I'll check on that.
I've noticed I mention other vehicles all the time in my threads. Gotta stop doing that. Common sense says it will lead to confusion. I had some slow time, so fate stepped in an gave me lots to do is all.
OK, coffee shop is done, I have to go sell a big job! Thanks to all my teachers!
Wildman25, I had just wrung the last drop of sweat outta my brow for the day when I realized the next step was to get back under the truck. That's when I called it, lol. OMG, 5 degrees? I think there's a law here in CA, NO work below 45 degrees, lol. I'll check on that.
I've noticed I mention other vehicles all the time in my threads. Gotta stop doing that. Common sense says it will lead to confusion. I had some slow time, so fate stepped in an gave me lots to do is all.
OK, coffee shop is done, I have to go sell a big job! Thanks to all my teachers!
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