need help removing distributor
have a ford f150 8cl. 302 1991 have to change the ignition module on side of distributor but can t get at one screw because of its position can t get tool in to take screw out so distributor has to be removed. never had to remove distributor on my other ford so just a little worried to screw it up . probabably has to be raised about a couple inches to get screw. need to change module cause truck does not start no spark.
so any help greatl appreciate
thanks
so any help greatl appreciate
thanks
If the tool is the problem, try using a 7/32" 1/4" drive six-point socket. If you have to use a shallow socket you might have to ream the top of the hole in the module a little.
But at any rate, make sure you use plenty of silicon grease heat sink compound or it will go right back out on you. That’s what makes them go out in the first place, the silicon grease heat sink compound dries up.
If you do have to remove the distributor, mark your crankshaft pulley at TDC and 10 deg BTDC. Look at your distributor cap, there should be a “1” on it, note its position, remove the cap. Turn the engine around until the rotor in the distributor almost points to where the “1” was, then look at the crankshaft pulley and turn the engine until the pointer points at "TDC". Do not move the engine at all until the distributor is back in. Mark the rotors position to the distributor. Unplug, remove the hold down bolt and pull the distributor out. Note how much the rotor moves while pulling the distributor out and mark it on the distributor.
Do your work on it and put it back in with rotor pointing to where it was when it came out. Position the distributor in about the same position it was and push it in. Hopefully the oil pump drive shaft went in and the rotor is pointing to the first mark. Hand tighten the hold down bolt, put the cap back on, plug it in and remove the SPOUT. Hook your timing light to number 1 plug wire, start the engine and twist the distributor until the pointer points to 10 Deg. BTDC. Tighten the hold down bolt and recheck. Remove the timing light and put the SPOUT back in. And you got it.
But at any rate, make sure you use plenty of silicon grease heat sink compound or it will go right back out on you. That’s what makes them go out in the first place, the silicon grease heat sink compound dries up.
If you do have to remove the distributor, mark your crankshaft pulley at TDC and 10 deg BTDC. Look at your distributor cap, there should be a “1” on it, note its position, remove the cap. Turn the engine around until the rotor in the distributor almost points to where the “1” was, then look at the crankshaft pulley and turn the engine until the pointer points at "TDC". Do not move the engine at all until the distributor is back in. Mark the rotors position to the distributor. Unplug, remove the hold down bolt and pull the distributor out. Note how much the rotor moves while pulling the distributor out and mark it on the distributor.
Do your work on it and put it back in with rotor pointing to where it was when it came out. Position the distributor in about the same position it was and push it in. Hopefully the oil pump drive shaft went in and the rotor is pointing to the first mark. Hand tighten the hold down bolt, put the cap back on, plug it in and remove the SPOUT. Hook your timing light to number 1 plug wire, start the engine and twist the distributor until the pointer points to 10 Deg. BTDC. Tighten the hold down bolt and recheck. Remove the timing light and put the SPOUT back in. And you got it.
SPOUT = SPark OUTput. It's a little two-wire "dongle" (for lack of a better term) with a gray, or sometimes black connector in the end. It is either connected and hanging off of your distributor (which I think it probably is in your case), or it is just in front of the brake booster next to the driver's side fender. This connector MUST be removed for proper timing adjustment, as it takes the computer-controlled timing advance out of the loop.
Jason
Jason
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