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Holy cow! Those O-Rings are toast! Aaron is right, that be your problem. After you get it back together, and all the air bled out of the system (may take up to a couple hundred miles of driving, there is no way to "bleed" the system other than drive it) you'll think your driving a new truck.
Perhaps we can close the book on this one. Finished replacing injector o-rings yesterday (along with glow plugs and one UVCH). Did some pre-cranking without injectors being connected. Ran buzz test, which came back saying that bank 1 & 2 high sides were open. Continued on and cranked truck. She started relatively quickly and didn't take long to smooth out. Will take her up and down the highway later today, so that should work out most of the air left in the system.
FWIW, the top o-ring (flat one next to the metal ring) was either slightly torn or completely broke on EVERY injector. I expect to see some significant improvement once the air works out.
You will swear you are driving a different truck when you get all the air out. I know it was night and day difference on my rig.
I hope so. Since the time which these problems all started, I've replaced the air filter, fuel filter, IPR, GPR, glow plugs, IDM (with a higher voltage unit), and injector o-rings. I can't imagine that the performance will be anything less than night and day!
I think that an idm isnt worth it especially if you pulled it off and you didnt hear anything sloshing inside of it and it looks all good. right now im in the middle of fixing my truck from a no start when warm issue, it ended up being the fuel bowl harness...i just recommend checking the pigtails on your ipr and icp really cood and look at your pins. i havent read the whole post so sorry if this has been brought up.
When my IDM went bad there was no water in it. So this rule im not sure always holds up. Unless mine evaporated before I pin pointed the problem
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