I sorted out the wire and fusible link that I burnt up. I got my dad to help me decipher the wiring schematic and cleaned up the 2 of 3 wires that were unused on my new one wire Alt. .
But another issue at the same time( been a couple years, but its happened before) the small wire telling the solenoid to engage had constant fire thru it when the key was NOT in the Start position. .it managed to fix itself while we chased wires. . . then later I had the truck running and when I turned the key off it continued running. .

After the elec issue sat night(grounding the Alt hot wire to the block BC of no clearance between the block, frying a fusible link and a burning up a corroded wire to the solenoid) I bought a new key switch and solenoid. I changed them both.
I'm thinking maybe this is a mechanical issue inside of the key switch, but it feels right( springs back after start position, good locking feeling from one position to the other) and didn't not appear too dirty when we swapped the lock cylinder to the new switch. Sooo WD40 in there? Completely different issue?


And past that. As far as the running and performance, I have a little of the first and none of the second. It will run and idle and rev. But as soon as you put it in gear and try to come off of an idle it will stutter hesitate, skip, and end up shutting down. . I drive a truck all week so it'll be Fri night or sat before I can work on it again. Going to put more gas in, double check my timing with the light, and check\replace for vac leak between my carb and dist(currently using the hose for my windshield wiper fluid).
If that all checks out, the HEI dist has adjustment on the vac advance, and read the eldebrock tuning procedure

 

If changing the ignition switch itself didn't fix the problem, it's possible the insulation on some of the wires to the ignition switch are damaged and sometimes shorting out with each other.

 

Good looking build though. D3's are boat anchors in my opinion but then... Good luck, enjoying the thread.

 

D3 heads aren't the worst ones but not the best.With some port work(specially on the exhaust side) you can gain 30-50hp depending on the port work

 

Possibly thinking the wire harness to the trans.since it is out in the open where it was possibly pinched between cab and trans during an engine swap maybe. And it goes straight to solenoid. Can you buy that harness?

 

Will keep that in mind. I have a wedding to help pay for in sept and a house to save a down payment for. Originally I was given enough leash to have my truck done and then save for house and he'd get the wedding. Last month or two the plan changed to "finish that stupid truck so we can have it for engagement pictures and help me with the wedding"
I had this truck as a daily when we met in HS. Only pictures we have of us then were with it or in it. It has a soft spot in her heart to but not quite as deep.

 

No complaints with the D3 heads from me. The 460 I just put in my Bronco is running circles all over the 351M it replaced. I don't care nothing about high end HP though. I want all mine to be under 4000 rpm.

 

Yep. Originally when I pulled the 351m I was going for any kind of power increase. .
Lol since its been down for years now and I've had to push it to the water hose to wash it, I was ready to settle for a 300.. Anything to drive her again under her own power

 

The install looks real nice and clean. Hope you get the electrical straightened out so you can drive the truck.

A couple things worth looking at.
#7 and #8 plug wires shouldn't be run along side each other. They fire next to each other and running them together can cause a hard to diagnose mis-fire. Ford typically separated them from the dist to the loom on the (factory)valve cover and from there they were open their respective plug. Most likely won't have an issue with new, premium wires, but I thought it worth mentioning.

You should have a clamp on your throttle cable. The clamps are usually bolted to the two bosses where you have your return spring. Using an after market intake and / or an Edelbrock carb will usually require a factory clamp to be modified. Most factory clamps also have provisions for the throttle return spring.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

Thanks roger, i have blue looms for the wires, and probably will end up swapping a few wires to clean up the engine bay. I'm not completely done yet. But i will keep #7-#8 in mind.
The throttle clamp you mentioned, I'm not familiar.

Cheap, fast, reliable. . you can only have two. . so after being pulled back home last night from the road side, and checking my bank statement this morning. This truck is gonna haul @5$!!!!!!

 

The wiring to the transmission should be the neutral safety switch and reverse light switch. I guess it's possible that if the always-hot reverse light wire and one of the NSS wires got crossed, that could trigger the starter solenoid. But I was really thinking more along the lines of the wires to the ignition switch, where you've got the always-hot, hot-in-run, hot-in-start, and hot-in-run/start wires all right next to each other. Either way, taking a look at the wiring to be sure you don't have shorts might not be a bad idea.

 

[QUOTE=redneck_davis;15116670]The throttle clamp you mentioned, I'm not familiar.QUOTE]

The clamp supports and secures the end of the throttle cable housing. If the clamp isn't in place the cable and housing can flop around like a dying fish whenever you step in the throttle pedal and you get an erratic throttle.
Any Ford with a throttle cable will have some form of this clamp. Even the '66 in my avatar has one.

This site, my computer, pictures and I do not get along. Otherwise I would post a picture of what I am talking about. Hopefully another member will post a picture of the clamp.

 

At the end of the throttle rod from carb to where it meets the thick pipe/rod from the gas pedal??

I had a nice little ford clip there(the rod went thru the holes in it and then and swung down and clipped to the throttle rod from the carb).I remember finding it in a junkyard with daddy back years ago. I searched everywhere but I couldn't find it. So my extra throttle rod had something welded with it and a 90° bend, and a hole for a cotter pin






And bkaul
Yes. The always hot from the backup light into the hot during start neutral/park outbound line. Possibly. . but while chasing wires. Me and dad think we had the trans unplugged at one time and still had voltage. We ended up disconnecting the hot to trans reverse wire and capping it off. I'm not sure if after all our trouble that we fixed anything or it just fixed itself.

 

This roger?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ford-Accelerator-Linkage-Rod-Clips-Motorcraft-Autolite-2100-4100-Set-of-4-/321654479121?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ae419d911&vxp=mtr