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1997 F250 4x4 with 250xxx, no modifications other than a 3" downpipe that was on the truck when purchased.*
Last week, my transmission od light began to flash. Noticed that it went into an alternate shift pattern. As I've driven it, I've noticed it slipping slightly, and I've lost lockup at higher speeds for the most part. Also, for the last few months, my problem with it cutting out (feels like fuel is being cut), has gotten worse.*
In the mornings after leaving it plugged in, I have no issues other than a little doggish, cuts put very slightly at higher RPMs, buy as the truck warms up the problem goes away, other than a slight tick which seems to come from the #8 cylinder. It also will shift fine, and seems to shift absolutely normal, ad well as having lockup in overdrive. Which normally hits around 45-50 mph when driving with a light foot.*
After being parked all day, I have to let it warm up go a god ten minutes or so, otherwise it cuts out horribly, will sometimes die, but hard to get it above 45 mph when it's acting like this. Is worse under load. During this, transmission seems to shift fine. Few miles later, it goes away, and transmission starts the alternate shift pattern. It does blow white smoke on startup if not plugged in.*
Took it to a transmission shop and those are the codes it pulled, along with P0472. That one is due to the sensor being busted. Kneeled on it one night. Haven't gotten a new one yet but I'm under the impression that wont cause my issues.
Guy at the shop told me to replace the cam sensor first, as that can sometimes cause problems in the transmission. Now, I have been under the impression our trucks do not have cam sensors, crank sensor yes, cam sensor, no. Correct?
Things I plan on replacing shortly ate glow plugs, UVCH, and valve cover gaskets as well. Along with a CPS from riff raff.*
To add, when tranny is ran for 10 miles or so, I loose reverse. Convertor locks up and kills truck. This just began yesterday.
I have done orings, and rebuilt the fuel bowl 8 months ago.*
well got some good news and some bad news. your truck is doing exactly the same thing mine did when i bought it so i cant tell you exactly how to fix it lol same codes an all.... 1st order one of these. Motorcraft Cam Position Sensor CPS 94.5-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance thatll take care of the cutting out P0344.
P1728 is the code i kept getting, and it kept getting progressively worse.... when he pulled it apart the overdrive pack was completely shot and there was black goo all around inside.... P1728 is slip detected and if your feeling the slip then ya defiantly got slip and changing the cam sensor aint gonna help that in the slightest.
I appreciate the insight. I'll get a black CPS from riff raff, I'm also going to do glow plugs and super duty valve cover gaskets, pig tails, and uvch.
Unfortunately, I do not have the funds for a new transmission or to have mine completely rebuilt. The way I'll have to do it, if possible, is bandaid it to last 6-8 more months and get it rebuilt then. It's a crappy way to do it and waste of money in the long run, but its the situation at hand.
So I've noticed today that when it bogs down and dies in reverse, that if I put it in neutral, Rev it just a little and then shift into reverse, it won't bog down, even if I let off the pedal and drive normal.
I'm wondering if it's a pump, a TCC? I've never done work on a transmisson, but as long as it's something I can do in the truck, I can get it done and I'm certain of that. Can the overdrive pack be replaced in the truck? I'm unfamiliar with all this, so if anyone could pretend I'm a newby, which I am with transmissons, it would greatly help. Or good links?
All of the things you mentioned have to be done with trans removed, pump is behind the torque converter and requires to slide hammers to remove, torque converter is a waste of money if internals are bad on trans as fluid circulates through everything and the overdrive clutch pack is in the back of the trans and is the last thing you remove during a teardown so ya can't really replace just that pack since all the others would already be removed to get to it. At least it wouldn't make since to anyway....
All of the things you mentioned have to be done with trans removed, pump is behind the torque converter and requires to slide hammers to remove, torque converter is a waste of money if internals are bad on trans as fluid circulates through everything and the overdrive clutch pack is in the back of the trans and is the last thing you remove during a teardown so ya can't really replace just that pack since all the others would already be removed to get to it. At least it wouldn't make since to anyway....
Well crap, okay.
How could I go about checking solenoids and sensors? May be a wild goose chase but I'd still like to try. What solenoids and sensors are on there? Should be an E40D correct?
Yea there is a big pack of um in there, serviced as a unit, mt guess is when you drop the pan you'll find some black goo in the bottom, and when ya find that that means junk clutches.
Found a shop in Joshua TX. Bill Burrows, awesome guy, and knows what's what. He requested to replace the CPS first before he puts a new tranny in it, because if I didn't fix the stumbling problem there was a chance the transmission would be trashed again, prematurely. I sent him a Motorcraft CPS and pigtail. He replaced both (free of charge) and the stumbling was fixed. Rebuilt tranny, with a 3 yr/36,000 warranty, should be finished in a few days. Hit the pocketbook entirely too hard but ready to have it back.
I can't remember what exactly he does. He does every update for the pump, new convertor, new bands, etc etc. Everything he uses he said "is one step up from your basic option, because I don't trust em"
I will get a parts list, hope to be picking the truck up tomorrow. He also said he would add a small shim if I wanted, to help firm up the shifting a little better than stock.
Well hopefully everything works out for the best, one way to tell if it is a precision industries torque converter is to see what color it is, precision converters are pink/purple colored
I think it will, I went to two different shops and they wanted $2,200 and how they spoke about things, didn't strike me in a manner of "I want to give you all my money". My girlfriends father (old school hot rodder and drag) recommended this guy, and their shop does business with him as well. He called him on my behalf and although he wanted around $2,200 as well, is doing it for me for $1,500.
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