Welcome FTE members

I'm brand new to this forum. My only previous Ford experience was many years ago with a 2000 Ford F150xlt stepside 4x4 that looked good when I bought it from a dealer, used with low miles. Biggest piece of s@@@ that I ever owned and said I would never own another Ford... Well... Never say never. Went out on a limb and was on craiglist and found a 2005 Ford F250 FX4 4X4 6.0L Turbo Diesel with 149,000 miles. I traded my 2007 Tacoma 4x4 Dblcab, 151000 miles. Straight across.

He told me it had 2 new batteries, new egr valve, oil changed, new brakes, etc. Sounds great. He did tell me that in the morning when cold and you start it is rough until it warms up. When it get's above the cold mark it is okay to drive and it drives great. When I came over yesterday to look at the truck it was already warmed up ready for the test ride. Rode great.

I woke up this morning, started, sounded a little rough, let it idle for about 2 minutes, took off. Studdered, shuddered, ran rough as sh@T UNTIL IT GOT ABOVE THE COLD MARK, then ran so beautiful..

I was talking to my boss and he gave me a number to a diesel shop. Called, talked with mechanic, he said sounded like the FICM. The truck is not throwing any codes. I asked how much for a FICM and he said 945.00
and it has to be programmed.

Was checking the forum and it sounds like people have taken the ficm apart and found bad solder joints. Any help on starting at the FICM would be greatly appreciated. I have no problem takinmg things apart, soldering, and trying that first. Am I on the right track???

I'm trying to turn this into a learning experience and keep thinking positive things about Ford....

All SUGGESTIONS appreciated...

 

Do yourself a favor, and buy some sort of OBD monitor. It will help you diagnose this and any future problems that might come up.

Here's a great link showing the different types.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

 

I would never talk smack about my 98 f150. Its just luck of the draw man. All companies have problems with every vehicle. Anything man made is gunna fail. I wouldn't trade my f150 or 250 for any chevy or dodge ever. Ford is where its at. But ya I think youre on the right track. Sounds like a fuel related problem. Id suggest to throw a bottle of fuel additive cetane boost in first. But checking the Fuel Injector Control Module is easy. Take the little inspection plate off and hook up the DMM(multimeter) red test lead to the far top left pin and the black test lead to the negative battery post. Be careful not to touch the case of the ficm tho with the test leads. Now turn on the key. Should show at least 45volts

 

If voltage is low, send the module off to Ed at ficmrepair.com. He'll restore and reprogram it for about $350

 

FICM is a possibility but you should verify it does have issues before tryng to fix it. One of the first threads in this 6.0 folder says "read first Tech Folder" select it and scroll down just a little you'll find the FICM test procedure. Just need a multimeter and maybe a helper to flip the key on and off when needed. A better way is with an OBDII monitor just read the voltage from the driver seat.

In my opinion the factory gauges (with a couple exceptions) on the dash are junk. A monitoring device allows you to see what's really happening under the hood. Click this link for some info on what's available. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

Stiction is a common issue on 6.0's it's basically deposits on the spool valve on the top of the injector. Symptoms at much like you describe. The three basic options are: Oil addatives can help, there's a thread in the tech folder on how to remove them and clean them up, and of course new injectors won't have this problem for a long time.
I suggest checking FICM voltage first, and trying an oil addative like RevX, Archoil, or Hot Shot Secret. Some have had good luck just switching to a 5w-40 oil.

 

Like people said read the tech folder. I just responded to a post below. My excursion ran horrible when cold than was good when it got warmss long as I could get it started. I put rotella T6 in it and eventually figured out that it had the wrong oil filter cap on it. With both of these things it starts fine down to 5 (that's the coldest I've been in). I know stiction isn't supposed to go away if that was my problem but it has for me or at least as far as I'm concerned.

 

Wow, lots of quick replies to this post!

 

Haha no kiddin.. switch to light weight synthetic oil in the winter too good call

 

A local shop did an oil change for me. I specified 5w-40 Rotella T-6. After I got out of work and was dropped off to pick the truck up, I started it and it sputtered and complained for about 2 minutes in the shops parking lot. I went back in and had them tell me / show me what they put into the truck.

They put 15W oil in. "It's what is supposed to go in it". I told them no, I was very specific about what I wanted in the truck. Talked to the manager (the one I made the appointment with) and before I knew it, the truck was back in on the lift, and the oil was being drained. T-6 went back in.

You know what the truck didn't do when it was restarted?

Right.... it didn't sputter or complain... it started smooth, ran smooth.

for cold temps (its been about 10 degrees or below at night here in NH) I use a block heater. Gets the coolant and block up to about 100 degrees. Makes for easy starts in the morning.

If its cold where you're at and you have 15W oil, and no block heater, before you start sweating a costly repair, check your codes (if you have any) switch to 5W oil and install / have installed a block heater. You will notice a big difference. Been using it in my truck year round since 2010.

forgot to add we have had more than a few -0+ degree mornings. As low as -9. I do not have starting issues. A bit of a sputter when I am starting in negative temperatures, occasionally!

Eric

 

You can also purchase a OBDII Bluetooth Dongle and download Torque App and read FICM input voltage, FICM Logic Voltage, and FICM output Voltage right from your smartphone, tablet or laptop. Very handy tool. Will cost you (for both the dongle and the App) about $35. Can't beat it with a stick!