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6.0L PSD cold start issues

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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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6.0L PSD cold start issues

I have a 2005 6.0L Powerstroke. I live in MD close to D.C. so it's right around 30 degrees out now. When I start it in the morning it starts a little rough but nothing too bad. I have to let it sit for about 5 minutes before I can drive off or it runs like cr*p. Even if it sits longer than that I still have the same problem. Sounds like injector stiction.........I'm currently running Amsoil 5w-40 in it right now and was told to switch to their 15w40. Now someone else is telling me to run their 10w30. Very confused and I have no idea which to run. Can anyone weigh in on this and give me some suggestions?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Cold start

My 2007 was doing the same. Took it to dealership, they down loaded up dates into trucks computer. runs like new now.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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my trucks tuned by Eric @ Innovative Diesel and he sent me a new XtremeStreet tune a couple months ago that had the latest Ford flash. Would that be on that one?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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Personally, I don't know why anyone would say go to a 15W40 in the cold weather.

Are your batteries healthy?
Have you checked FICM voltage?
Checked for codes?
All filters recently changed (fuel AND oil)?
Have you chacked the fuel quality (drain the HFCM) and open up the secondary fuel filter cap).
Do you measure fuel pressure?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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Cold start

This is what did and put on rec. checked glow plugs, and where ok. Tested and performed PMI on FICM as per TSB. Reprogramed PCM and TCM. Hope this helps.cause i don't realy understand what he did.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by render20
This is what did and put on rec. checked glow plugs, and where ok. Tested and performed PMI on FICM as per TSB. Reprogramed PCM and TCM. Hope this helps.cause i don't realy understand what he did.
I believe they repaired your FICM and then updated the programming.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Calvin, it's NOT striction. I agree with the above posts about checking your FICM voltages....see here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

Where you located in MD....I'm over in Millersville...near Glen Burnie.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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starting your 6.0

i live in the adirondacks in upstate new york and drive an early 6,0.i use rotella 5w40 oil and use 5 gallons of kero ,plus 4 ozs each of wally-world ashless 2 stroke oil and 4 ozs of diesel power silver catane boosster to every tank and she starts at over -20 without plugging her in.189,000 and running strong.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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cold start

As far as oil 15w40 Shell rotella. Live in north west Indiana 100 miles from Chicago. I farm and this is my Third Power Stroke. Truck sits in unheated garage,pluged in.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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I live on Andrews AFB. I just went to Wallyworld and got 4 gallons of Rotella T5 10W30. I already put it in but I won't be able to tell if this improved the situation until the morning. As far as checking the FICM voltages I plan on doing that tomorrow.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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First place to start is take it to your local Ford dealer and have them install the Inductive Heat flash. Worked like a charm for my truck!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 10:42 PM
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ok. is that heat flash not included in the regular Ford updates? Is it something seperate that I have to request?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 10:43 PM
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I bet FICM. Mine did the same thing. Friend 06 did it too...he just got it back from the dealer and they replaced his FICM and 2 injectors.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Troy Buenger
First place to start is take it to your local Ford dealer and have them install the Inductive Heat flash. Worked like a charm for my truck!
What is that?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:10 AM
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The 6.0L injectors are totally reliant on two electromagnets to shuttle the spool and control the oil to the injectors. The 7.3`s use an electromagnet also but they also have a spring to return the poppet to the closed position. Obviously the spring will work much better to "cut" through the thick oil and close the oil flow.

The small spool valve in the top of the injector that controls the flow of high oil pressure fed to the intensifier piston in the fuel injector only moves .017", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires. Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other. This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction or also called oil latching. Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Not only will running oil with too thick of a viscosity cause rough starts, but this also will interrupt the shuttle action of the spool causing injection timing to be retarded causing poor performance and decreased mileage until the oil is up to full operating temperature. It can also cause poor combustion and coking in the EGR components and the turbo.

Oil that stays inside the spool valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart, so the newest reflash (calibration update to your truck's computer(s) uses inductive heat (remember your FICM is a DC-DC comvertere that steps up your 12V electrical supply to 48V) after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked very well. It is an excellent preventative measure. The newest flashes addresses improved troubleshooting of FICM and related components, but also include some adjustments to "ease" the electical strain produced on the FICM.
 
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