Pivot bushing replacement
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
Pivot bushing replacement
Well, my pivot bushing for the front TTB grenaded as in all the rubber basically disappeared. I was working on replacing it, now that's awful if you do it with the arm connected to the truck. I managed to take the nut/bolt out, even though I think it was backwards, which made retrieving the bolt a lot harder. I used my jack to leverage the pivot arm and push the pivot pushing out off the bracket in order to remove it, it did come off center, but just about 1/4 of an inch is still blocked by the bracket and there seems to be no way to separate it further. After that I found out I'm basically unable to push the outer metal sleeve out (tried some hammering to no avail)... any Ideas?. I'll try to post some pics later so you guys can see what I'm working with.
P.S.: If I'm unable to remove the sleeve I might just get me some poly bushings and re-use all the metal sleeve, but I have new complete rubber ones at hand right now which I would like to use, but at the moment I'm just in for whatever gets me back on the road sooner.
P.S.: If I'm unable to remove the sleeve I might just get me some poly bushings and re-use all the metal sleeve, but I have new complete rubber ones at hand right now which I would like to use, but at the moment I'm just in for whatever gets me back on the road sooner.
Last edited by Encho; Feb 28, 2015 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Making the text more clear for future reference.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: SW Florida
I was waiting for you to post pics because I don't quite understand what you're trying to do. Are you just trying to get the old bushings out of the axle? If so, that job is WAY easier if you just take a few extra minutes to remove the axle from the truck. Just disconnect the driveshaft, take off the brake calipers, unbolt the swaybar, shocks, radius arms, and coil springs and you can slide the axle halves out and work on them with no interference.
Look at the factory bushings and you'll see that they're flared on one end by the factory, this was done to keep them in place after installation. Cut or grind off the flared part, then press the bushings out with a ball joint press.
Look at the factory bushings and you'll see that they're flared on one end by the factory, this was done to keep them in place after installation. Cut or grind off the flared part, then press the bushings out with a ball joint press.
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
You actually understood everything alright. I was trying to avoid having to take the axle out, but I get your point, even though taking the axle out is a bothersome job. And I have no press nearby so I'll have to find alternative transportation. I guess I'll try on the truck today and if things don't work out I'll take the darned thing off.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
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From: SW Florida
Yeah I know, it ain't much fun wrestling with that driver side axle beam but it is what it is. I tried doing the job with the axles in the truck and it's not fun. I realized that it would take me the same amount (or more) time and effort to do it in the truck versus just pulling the axle halves out, so I went ahead and did the remaining side that way.
You don't NEED a balljoint press, you can smash the old ones out with a hammer and chisel and drive the new ones with your BFH and maybe an impact socket or something about the same size. The press just makes life easier.
I tack welded the new bushings to the axle since I didn't have anything to flare the new ones out with, if you don't have a welder then you'll probably be alright just peening the new ones over a bit.
Forgot to mention radius arms have to get unbolted too of course, I edited that in my first post in case anyone comes across it in a search. I found it easier to reinstall the axle if you take the bracket off the frame and loosely install it on the end of the radius arm while you put it back together.
You don't NEED a balljoint press, you can smash the old ones out with a hammer and chisel and drive the new ones with your BFH and maybe an impact socket or something about the same size. The press just makes life easier.
I tack welded the new bushings to the axle since I didn't have anything to flare the new ones out with, if you don't have a welder then you'll probably be alright just peening the new ones over a bit.
Forgot to mention radius arms have to get unbolted too of course, I edited that in my first post in case anyone comes across it in a search. I found it easier to reinstall the axle if you take the bracket off the frame and loosely install it on the end of the radius arm while you put it back together.
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Postmaster
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
when i did em on my 95 i fought for a whole day w/ the axle under the truck. admitted defeat the next day around noon, pulled the axle out. (literally the calipers, little bolt holding clip on top of coil spring and radius arm nuts.) Had them both out w/ new ones pounded in by the end of the day. Trust me, much easier job once you pull the axle out
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Cottage Grove, WI
I didnt have any power tools either. Used a sawsall to cut the flare off the old ones, then used a chisel and bfh to pound em out. and the large socket and bfh to pound the new ones in.
protip: make sure to clean any/all rust out of the bores the bushings go into using 1/2 round file and emry cloth. makes install of the new ones much, MUCH smoother
protip: make sure to clean any/all rust out of the bores the bushings go into using 1/2 round file and emry cloth. makes install of the new ones much, MUCH smoother
Thread Starter
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
I didnt have any power tools either. Used a sawsall to cut the flare off the old ones, then used a chisel and bfh to pound em out. and the large socket and bfh to pound the new ones in.
protip: make sure to clean any/all rust out of the bores the bushings go into using 1/2 round file and emry cloth. makes install of the new ones much, MUCH smoother
protip: make sure to clean any/all rust out of the bores the bushings go into using 1/2 round file and emry cloth. makes install of the new ones much, MUCH smoother
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 622
Likes: 5
From: Missouri - Lake of the Oz
pivot bushing replacement
I second the motion of just disassemble the whole front end. Not only does it make the bushing replacement easier you are able to check out all other components of your front suspension to repair or replace as needed. One note of experience here: Be sure to check both [left and right] pivot mounts for stress cracks and/or complete breaks. I had one of the ears for the left axle pivot broken completely off.
And, when reassembling, be a nice guy and use an anti-seize compound in locations such as the axle arm ends. Whether for a future owner or yourself it is a little time and money well spent.
dn.
And, when reassembling, be a nice guy and use an anti-seize compound in locations such as the axle arm ends. Whether for a future owner or yourself it is a little time and money well spent.
dn.