Pivot bushing replacement

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Feb 10, 2015 | 10:38 AM

#16

GoinBoarding

Cargo Master

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 3,342

Likes: 294

From: Laramie, WY

I've done it both ways successfully. Prefer to remove entire axle, sounds like a lot but it's fast. Driver's side is heavy for a solo job (I left springs/hubs/rotors/lockouts/3rd member everything on). When I did it under the truck, I made a puller/installer out of threaded rod and some tubing. It worked OK, but renting a ball joint press (super-HD C-clamp) and pulling the axle worked best. If you can, don't bother with rubber bushings, just go to Energy Suspension poly bushings. The rubber doesn't hold up well (I had Moog in for 2 years and it was coming apart aleady).

Feb 10, 2015 | 09:07 PM

#17

Pkupman82

Postmaster

Joined: Feb 2003

Posts: 3,441

Likes: 5

From: Muskegon, MI (home)

I'll 2nd 3rd and 4th on pulling the TTB out. I've done several pivot bushings on F150s, FSBs, Rangers, etc they're all the same. Might as well do the radius arm bushings while it's apart, also poly bushings are the only way to fly. Another helpful tip, loosen the radius arm bolts at the axle beam; this aids in reassembly. I made a cradle for my floor jack out of a piece of c-channel, it cradles the drivers side beam assembly perfectly. It makes the ordeal much safer and easier if you're working alone.

Feb 28, 2015 | 11:30 AM

#18

Encho

Thread Starter

The Southernmost Mod

Joined: Dec 2004

Posts: 6,902

Likes: 21

From: Caracas, Venezuela

No power/air tools of any kind, so I finally did the deed with the help of a local mechanic. He happened to be around working on a neighbor's car and I lent him some tools, so he pitied me and gave me a hand to take the bushing out of the arm (by BFH/chisel submission), which he recommended me to take off immediately, definitely the way to go.