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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 08:55 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Napewastewin
An update to share. I have changed the crank position sensor for a new one. I have changed the injector pressure regulator. It now appears, with the help of my local diesel mechanic, That D Ford cylinder on the passenger side is not running properly, too cold. It appears as though that in injector has gone on vacation or perhaps to the graveyard? Does anyone have a good idea where I can get a good working used injector? My truck has 350,000 miles on it and I do not see the sense to install a new injector. Therefore I am looking for a working used injector as all the other seven have now also 350,000 miles on them. If it's not broken, don't fix it.
If your saying the "Drivers Side Bank (2,4,6,& 8)" aren't delivering fuel, you should check UCVH and connections. This would explain the IDM Code.

If you had one bad injector, the vehicle would still start. Maybe not every time, but you could get it running. And, it would run like crap.

When you're cranking it, does it speed up and slow down? Compression versus no compression.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 09:03 AM
  #17  
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Tom, there no codes any longer. The truck starts and runs.....Like crap! Yesterday when I started her, she ran very rough however in about 100 metres it smoothed out! Took it for a two mile run up the road and back to the shop. As we were standing there talking and shaking out heads...It started to run like crap again! It is the forward most cylinder on the passenger side. It is showing a 100 degree lower temp than the other seven. Therefore we believe the problem is with that injector! Ideas?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 09:17 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Napewastewin
Tom, there no codes any longer. The truck starts and runs.....Like crap! Yesterday when I started her, she ran very rough however in about 100 metres it smoothed out! Took it for a two mile run up the road and back to the shop. As we were standing there talking and shaking out heads...It started to run like crap again! It is the forward most cylinder on the passenger side. It is showing a 100 degree lower temp than the other seven. Therefore we believe the problem is with that injector! Ideas?
Okay, now we're getting somewhere. You say no codes when its running like crap?

Check those connections for the #1 Injector on the UCVH and 42 Pin Connector. The Injector could be bad. But, they tend not to improve and then revert to bad. They tend just to be bad.

Can you do an Injector Buzz Test, KOEO Test, and, Cylinder Contribution Test?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #19  
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The guy I have working on the truck for me now, it's a pretty good diesel mechanic. I am in a RV campground (?) behind some truckstops and he is there. I'm just searching for some ideas. He has a tester that he's going to borrow from a friend this afternoon and we will do that particular test. The idea that it could be the injector is based on the thermal testing with this great little laserbeam thermometer he has. But we are going to check that test this afternoon. He did shake around the connections at the top of the valve cover and reported that they looked pretty good. Still in the discovery phase here. oh, I also change the fuel filter it was "really black", she said with some embarrassment.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #20  
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Today's update: after running the proper test it has proven that the number one injector ( the forward most cylinder on the passenger side) is not functioning. I am hoping to locate, therefore, did used injector to fill that position. I understand that this number one cylinder does not require a specific number. I am also looking for a wiring harness for the passenger-side of the motor. I hope it might be possible to find at least the injector from someone on this site.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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A good injector will not fire if the wires going to it are bad. I did that last summer with another member here. His #1 cylinder was not firing on his new-to-him truck so he bought a reman injector to put in. We get in there and see a reman already in there. That was a clue. We stick in his new reman anyway, and sure enough the problem was not fixed.


Point is the UVCH wires need to be tested before you go further. Easy first step is to disconnect the 42 pin connector on the driver side and inspect the harness. It drapes across the valve cover and can chafe, then you'll get shorting and random badness.


Just trying to narrow it down and save you some time and coin.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 07:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
A good injector will not fire if the wires going to it are bad. I did that last summer with another member here. His #1 cylinder was not firing on his new-to-him truck so he bought a reman injector to put in. We get in there and see a reman already in there. That was a clue. We stick in his new reman anyway, and sure enough the problem was not fixed.


Point is the UVCH wires need to be tested before you go further. Easy first step is to disconnect the 42 pin connector on the driver side and inspect the harness. It drapes across the valve cover and can chafe, then you'll get shorting and random badness.


Just trying to narrow it down and save you some time and coin.
14 days into this quest now. So far I have replaced number one and number eight injector Along with new plugs and new valve cover gaskets all wires checked. The cam sensor valve. The high-pressure fuel valve. Fuel pump, computer, fuel filter and the fuel pressure sensor. When removed the fuel pressure sensor did have oil on the electrical side. When started cold the truck runs rough when it starts to warm up it runs even rougher until it eventually kills itself. Throwing no codes!
All wires to the injectors were checked for chafe damage.
Pulling my hair out, any ideas?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Napewastewin
Along with new plugs and new valve cover gaskets all wires checked. The cam sensor valve. The high-pressure fuel valve. Fuel pump, computer, fuel filter and the fuel pressure sensor. When removed the fuel pressure sensor did have oil on the electrical side. When started cold the truck runs rough when it starts to warm up it runs even rougher until it eventually kills itself. Throwing no codes!
All wires to the injectors were checked for chafe damage.
Pulling my hair out, any ideas?
When you say:

1. new plugs do you mean the the harnesses for the injectors under the valve covers?

2. high-pressure fuel valve do you mean the IPR. We don't have high pressure fuel we use High press oil and the oil is regulated by the IPR which is the valve under the fuel bowl.

3. fuel pressure sensor do you mean the ICP. This would be in the front of the drivers side head and measure the oil press for the injectors. You said it had oil in it so pretty sure this is the one your talking about.

4. computer do you mean the PCM(the one in the cab by the parking brake pedal) or the IDM(under the fender in the left wheel well)


Are you getting any codes. Assuming you have a way to read codes are you also able to monitor pressures? Need to look at ICP and see what it is reading.
What is your oil level? If it is low it won't run because it needs the oil to fire the injectors.
Has fuel pressure been checked? Clogged screens in the tank will cause it not to run.
Let us know what you find.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:40 AM
  #24  
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Just a question. Did you mean 350K on the original injectors? That is a LOT of miles. They could just be really tired.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:41 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
When you say:

1. new plugs do you mean the the harnesses for the injectors under the valve covers?

2. high-pressure fuel valve do you mean the IPR. We don't have high pressure fuel we use High press oil and the oil is regulated by the IPR which is the valve under the fuel bowl.

3. fuel pressure sensor do you mean the ICP. This would be in the front of the drivers side head and measure the oil press for the injectors. You said it had oil in it so pretty sure this is the one your talking about.

4. computer do you mean the PCM(the one in the cab by the parking brake pedal) or the IDM(under the fender in the left wheel well)


Are you getting any codes. Assuming you have a way to read codes are you also able to monitor pressures? Need to look at ICP and see what it is reading.
What is your oil level? If it is low it won't run because it needs the oil to fire the injectors.
Has fuel pressure been checked? Clogged screens in the tank will cause it not to run.
Let us know what you find.
I am very sorry for the confusion. Let me answer your queries by your numbers.
1. This was a voice to text typo,Sorry for the confusion. Yes I do mean the wiring harness that goes to the injectors. New gaskets new wires and new plug in Connections. The engine has passed the "buzze test".
2. Yes I did mean the high oil pressure valve. That was replaced as mine had some rust on the "piston shaft".
3. Oil pressure sensor, on the medial side and forward, on the drivers side.
4. IDM, drivers wheel well.
Yes, there is a code ready involved and at this point it is not showing codes.
Oil level and viscosity is good. Rotella T 15/40
There is no reading on the fuel pressure, but there is a new fuel pump. We have not checked the screens in the tank.

Fuel pressure is showing 45 pounds.
 

Last edited by Napewastewin; Feb 18, 2015 at 11:46 AM. Reason: New information
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:49 AM
  #26  
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You said the fuel filter was really black. You could have bad orings or bad injectors bleeding off your high oil pressure. Can you monitor ICP? Are the valve covers still off. You can watch the injectors and make sure they are all spitting out oil.

Pull the fuel line off that goes into the back of the fuel pump and blow a little shop air back into the tank. If the screens are clogged it will run ok for a while until they clog up again.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 11:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Napewastewin
I am very sorry for the confusion. Let me answer your queries by your numbers.
1. This was a voice to text typo,Sorry for the confusion. Yes I do mean the wiring harness that goes to the injectors. New gaskets new wires and new plug in Connections. The engine has passed the "buzze test".
2. Yes I did mean the high oil pressure valve. That was replaced as mine had some rust on the "piston shaft".
3. Oil pressure sensor, on the medial side and forward, on the drivers side.
4. IDM, drivers wheel well.
Yes, there is a code ready involved and at this point it is not showing codes.
Oil level and viscosity is good. Rotella T 15/40
There is no reading on the fuel pressure, but there is a new fuel pump. We have not checked the screens in the tank.

Fuel pressure is showing 45 pounds.
Yes, 350,000 miles on the injectors, except for number 1 and 8 now.
 
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