I kept my dads truck when he passed. He ordered it in 99 (2000) and he said he ordered a limited slip rear. Well, he didn't get one. I plan to keep it to use on the farm but I need both rears to pull. It is 4x4. My plan is to buy a Detroit Locker and have it installed locally. Anyone know kind of what I can expect to pay to set it up and do the install? I don't mind paying but I don't like getting ripped.

 

I'm a diff dummy, but isn't it a matter of swapping out some hardware to get a true LSD? I like my LSD.

 

The gears still have to be removed, shimmed and ensured that the original back lashing is maintaned. I would think with a new locker or true trac which seems to be popular here, bearing kit you should be under 1k.

 

If you have a Sterling 10.5 Ford rear end a standard bearing and shim kit is around $160. The 2 pinion Ford limited slip is around $600 & the heavier duty Ford limited slip 3 pinion is around $900. The prices are from a local dealer to me, I don't think I'm allowed to disclose the vendors name. Hope this helps you get an idea of pricing.

I'm looking into a rebuild and gear swap myself.

 

Confirm what axle you have from the door sticker. Check junk yards. Ford used them forever and a day. They should be plentiful.

 

Get the whole rear end or just the LS pieces? I have looked around craigslist for a while with no luck.

I can get a Detroit locker shipped to me for $650, bearing/shim kit $150, oils and such say $80. That is almost $900. What should I expect in labor? $400?

 

I had a True Trac installed in my 01' F250 with a new bearing kit for $1100.
I had one installed in my F150 and loved it. That's why I put it in my Super Duty.

 

Good info. Thanks. That gives me a ball park. Now, I just have to find a good installer.

 

Just FYI when looking for parts.

 

I think I paid around $900 for mine installed. The True Trac turned my SD into a real truck! Love it!!!

 

I thought all 4x4's had LSD! It doesn't make sense to me to put an open diff in a 4x4 truck.

 

99% of all 4x4's have an Open Differential. This is mainly for vehicle stabilization on slippery surfaces. An open diff leaves one wheel non-powered and help maintains the position of the vehicle.

LSD's will tend to slide sideways on slippery slopes.

You can't beat a LSD on dry traction surfaces.

LSD's are also costly, require more frequent maintenance, and a break-in period. Most will become inoperable before the life of the vehicle expires if not maintained. Similar to a Transmission. Clutch plates, spring, etc.

Designs like True Track work entirely differently using round-rectangular hypoid gears free to move laterally based on speed of the axle (loss of traction) dividing power (torque) accordingly.

 

Same here truetrac is the best way to go.
Mine only cost 450 but I put it in.

 

whitetmv, that is good info. I got up under the truck and looked at the tag on the 2000. It said 3.73. My 2004 tag said 3.73LS. I will see what the door says just to double check.

 

I'm not meaning to hijack but I just had a question. My axle code is C1 (3.73 LS). I have a few dial indicators and feelers gauges, is there any way of visually inspecting the limited slip and gears for excess wear? I'm going to pull the diff cover off this weekend and do a fluid change.