With car gauge pro app I tried to cheap out with the ELM327 OBDii clone and it didn't work. Following Tugly's advice I spent $101 for the MX OBDii bt device and it worked right away.

I recently bought this truck and am diagnosing a cold hard start condition. The truck will start right up if it's been plugged in. I have not changed the oil to 5w30 yet to see if that makes a difference. If it's not plugged in, it will hard start and only 1 or 2 cylinders fire, runs like crap (no white smoke at all). Flooring it in that condition will only raise the RPM to about 2000 and just runs like crap. But if it's been plugged in it starts right up and purrs like a diesel kitty.

Here is a video of the buzz test. What are your thoughts? I am sorry for the background noise. I yelled at the drivers passing by to quite down but they ignored me. I am thinking the injectors need replacing, should I do all 8? Or just the 6 that sound extra bad. None of these sound that great to me. But the #6 injector was replaced in the past couple years, according to the maintenance records.

If you can't tell anything from this because of background noise, then I will take another one and try to time the video to start as the light up the street is red. Or maybe block of the road. I dunno. Wish this giant azz truck would fit in my garage.

Start at 15 seconds in and it ends by the 30 second mark in the vid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwWT...ature=youtu.be

 

If you could, record another video. Before you record it, please go to a place that has significantly less noise. When you record it, please place the phone in a more central or balanced location...directly in front of the HPOP reservoir or in middle front of the radiator.

That will give people a better idea of how the actual buzz test sounds.

There could be other less expensive problems lurking than injectors. If you can provide us with more info from the app you are using that would be helpful...ICP, IPR%, EOT, and etc. Can you run a glow plug test with the software?

I think most will agree that if you are replacing one injector on a truck that you are uncertain about the age of the other seven then you should probably do them all. Your profile states that your truck has 250k+ on it. Is that correct?

 

I'll get another video. It has 286,000 miles. The app doesn't tell you anything about the buzz test, but it does have gp test option so I'll check it out.

 

#8 sounds a little muffled (you're on that side).

Try sitting the phone in the center somewhere.

You'll know if one is sticking or a solenoid is going. There will be notable audio difference between them.

Re post when you get a chance

 

Yes... quieter location, like a hospital parking lot.

Camera centrally located over the engine. Most modern cameras have stereo microphones, so the playback will be in stereo on a laptop or a computer with decent speakers.

This is an example of what we're talking about:


"Cranky" cold starts with purring warm operation typically points at glowplugs, but other things can make this happen. Most should be covered in the last link in my signature - give it a click.

 

Ok took a better video please let me know your thoughts gentlemen.

 

3 and 7 don't sound all that good. I'd verify the UVCHs with the link in my signature before going any further.

 

EDIT: I am using a free harbor freight meter so that could be part of the issue. This meter measures 1.2 ohms of resistance when shorting the leads together and from what I'm reading, it should be 0.

Am I doing the 42 pin test correctly? I clearly don't know my way around a digital multimeter (DMM) very well. I have black lead in COM port and red lead in V/Ohm/mA port, reading in the 200 range. I did not get a reading when checking across the Driver Side Supply to any of the injectors. Just "1" (infinite?), I did check all the ranges just to be sure and it was "1" in any range on the DMM.

I did check the glow plug resistance at harness and got these readings with the red lead touching the glow plug pins and the black COM lead grounded to chassis, reading in the "200" range:

Driver side front to rear: 5.4, 5.4, 5.5, 5.9
Passengar side same order: 12.8, 12.5, 12.6, 12.3

Guy on youtube said anything higher than 2 ohms should be replaced?

 

When I ground at the battery terminal the driver side glow plug pins in order front to back came 1.9, 2.3, 2.8, 2.0

The passenger side are all 1.9 ohms.

 

1,3,5,7 aren't as loud meaning something is amist. But do you have GPR? Change it out and see what happens. If it clicks don't mean it's good.

 

How many miles on this truck/injectors? Chances are they are tired and like you mentioned synthetic 5w-30 will def help the cold starts. After you check the UVCH's and have the valve covers off measure the distance of the armature plate and adapter housing on the injectors under the solenoids. If you can't get at least .002 feeler gauge under them this could be part of your cold starting issues.

Sorry, just realized my attachment is the same as Tugly's link "Injector Troubleshooting".

Here is a link to the description of the poppet valve.

http://www.dieselpro.ca/Poppet%20Valve.pdf

 

Throw some new aa battery in that meter. Harbour do ok but go crazy onbad batts

 

I'm not confident about your passenger-side UVCH. It may be time to pop the top over there and have a look.

 

Changed the oil with 5w-30 synthetic. Went out this morning it was about 35 F, cycled the glow plug system 5 times (all the way through the whole cycle not just the wait to start light), and it started. It ran rough, maybe a couple cylinders missing for a couple seconds, then they all came on and it ran smooth after like 20 seconds. During this time it was smoking. It usually never smokes from tailpipe when it's plugged in on startup. So... yeah. Still need to pull the valve covers and check things out

But changing the oil was an improvement.

 

286,000 miles, original injectors except the #6 was replaced about 5 years ago according to the paperwork.