I understand the switch removal procedure as gone over previously and have actually changed a Ford switch. The shaft on my 73 F100 will not pull out no matter how I push the "button" on top.
Any ideas?

 

Squirt a little carb or elec cleaner on the button with the red tube, and then push up and down, not just down all the way, on the button.

All the while pushing and pulling on the headlight **** that shaft can just get stuck sometimes.

Worse case power pull (use force) the **** off the shaft end (triangle shaped with little barbs) and then use a very little JB weld after you replace the switch and put the **** back on. VERY LITTLE

 

Thanks. I'll give it a try. Not sure how I'll get that can of spray in the dash. Barely has room for my hand.

 

Sometimes the button actually locks the ****, like it goes in too far or something, I have had to pull on the **** and then push the button and once the button is in about 2/3 of the way to being bottomed out, it will release but if the button is bottomed it sometimes goes too far and locks the shaft in. Good luck.

 

Well just wait till you have the dash bezel almost removed. You can get ALL the other stuff off, and then pull the headlight **** out/headlight switch to the "on" position and you can move the dash bezel around enough to get an eye on the button and a red spray tube right in there.

Dash bezel removal:

Remove the 5 screws first. Far left between the headlight/wiper *****, there are 2 screws, 1 between the *****, and 1 above it, going in straight up. Moving right there are 2 more screws. 1 in the middle, 1 far right, both pointing straight up. Section heater control there is 1 screw pointing straight up.

Heater controls are in behind the dash plastic, they stay where they are, but you will slide/squeeze the levers out of way to prevent them from hooking on the dash bezel.
To remove the wiper **** it has a release clip on its shaft that you can put pressure on with small flat tip screwdriver in the tiny slot, press and release and slide the **** off.
Radio may be behind or in front the dash bezel, depending on how previous owner (P.O.) installed it. If its factory or shaft style, pull the ***** off the radio and you will see shallow nuts on the shafts. Clean the shaft threads with elec cleaner and small brush, because the shafts will strip VERY easily, use a deep set socket on them. Once the nuts are removed, there should be a plastic or metal radio plate to remove. Behind that are 2 more screws holding dash bezel to a metal bracket. But not always…

Okay, under the 3 sections that you see the gauges in, under the middle one there is a plastic tab from the dash bezel that is tucked behind the metal part of the dash. You can see the metal cutout area for it, when the headlight ****/shaft is pulled out or removed all together you can pull up on the plastic dash bezel to get the plastic tab out of the slot.
Disconnect the battery and pull out the HEADLIGHT ****/shaft. With all screws out of dash and radio loose, you should be able to move it a bit/tilt it forward and see the headlight switch directly behind where the headlight **** is. So with the shaft out then you tilt the plastic dash bezel forward to get your hand above the switch and feel for a metal button to press and hold to release the headlight shaft from the headlight switch. **** and shaft will slide out as one piece with the button held down.

I normally start all this by reaching up under the dash and remove the headlight **** and shaft 1st.

 

Thanks all! I'll get on it first think tomorrow if it warms up.

 

Hurrah! After numerous times pushing the "button" and pulling at different spots, the **** shaft freed up and slipped out!


Many thanks to all!! Now on to trouble shooting my dash lights. It's a sunny day!

 

I have the switch shaft out but can't seem to find a release for the switch. There is not a nut on the outside. The switch doesn't seem to turn. The fuse block seems ok. any idea on what could be holding the switch in place/

 

I had to take the front off the instrument cluster to get to a nut that held the switch. The ground contact for the instrument lights was slightly corroded. Cleaned that, replaced all of the fuses except the instrument fuse. Checked for power to all the fuse connections. Turned off power and replaced the instrument fuse with a 2 amp and it blew. Same story with a 4 amp. I only have two remaining 3 amp as it calls for. So far everything powers up except the instruments.

 

You should have a nut like lock ring on the outside of the dash, threaded on the switch end, that the shaft came out of. It should have 3 notches on it, just use a pair of pliers to loosen it while holding the switch body itself.

You do know that with the head light shaft in place you can turn the headlight switch **** and dim and brighten you dash lights and when they are full bright it locks on the dome light even with doors closed.

To tired to remember the direction, turn it and feel for the full bright then the click to lock on dome light.