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You guys may remember I had to replace the pigtail to my compressor this past summer and it has been working well ever since. Today, with all the rain and cold, it quit working. Arrrggghhhh! So, I am just wondering if I should check anything else before replacing the darn thing. I tried jiggling those wires to see if that was the culprit again and rechecked my connections, but no dice. I also leased on the clutch wheel and it wasp sable and seemed loose. I hasn't froze up thank God, but she no worky anymore. Any ideas from experienced compressor failure victims? Thanks.
Check the connector for power.
Check across the field coil and see if it is open or shorted to ground.
Those two tests will tell you if you need to work one way or the other.
Check the connector for power.
Check across the field coil and see if it is open or shorted to ground.
Those two tests will tell you if you need to work one way or the other.
Thanks Aaron. I am dumb, so tell me, what is the field coil? I just check the connector for voltage? There are two connectors on the compressor. Just ask Nate...I SUCK at electrical. I do have a voltmeter, so I'll try anything.
I also replaced that pigtail and switch and now its quiting. Kicks on and off, mostly off when I'm pulling hard or high rpms. Today I checked the air gap on the clutch, it was too wide. Auto zone has a shim kit for 2 bucks and I adjusted it. If you look here Adjusting Clutch Gap on the Ford FS10 Compressor it explains it a little. This one explains it better SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap. I'm not saying this is your problem, Sunday I will find out if my adjustment worked. In the driveway it did, LOL
I also replaced that pigtail and switch and now its quiting. Kicks on and off, mostly off when I'm pulling hard or high rpms. Today I checked the air gap on the clutch, it was too wide. Auto zone has a shim kit for 2 bucks and I adjusted it. If you look here Adjusting Clutch Gap on the Ford FS10 Compressor it explains it a little. This one explains it better SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap. I'm not saying this is your problem, Sunday I will find out if my adjustment worked. In the driveway it did, LOL
Air gap? I don't even know what this is you speak of! LOL I am pretty uneducated about AC stuff. I am just hoping it's not needing a new one. Aaron, I could not even get it to kick on when idling. It did for about three seconds from turning it on and off, but kicked off right away after that. I could not get it to come back on no matter what I did.
If the freon level Is a tad low when rpms increase it can pull the low side too low and kick out as well.
Just a thought.
That makes sense Aaron. I put a can in from the auto parts store. I hate doing that but it works sometimes. I'm like Byron, I don't know much about ac's.
Originally Posted by BBslider001
Air gap? I don't even know what this is you speak of! LOL I am pretty uneducated about AC stuff. I am just hoping it's not needing a new one. Aaron, I could not even get it to kick on when idling. It did for about three seconds from turning it on and off, but kicked off right away after that. I could not get it to come back on no matter what I did.
Its the gap in between the outside clutch and pulley. I think in those pictures it shows it.
Take the connector over on the canister of the Ac box. Cross across it while its running(the connector that is) with a piece of wire or paper clip.
If the clutch engages then
A) the cycling switch has gone bad.
B) freon level is low.
The ford cycling switches have always been problematic.you also with the truck running and Ac on think it at the base with the but end of a screwdriver.if the clutch kicks in then its just a bad switch.
Just more checks....lemme know if you need more immediate help by text.
Well, once again for the 1,000,000th time, the help on this forum helped me diagnose an issue. Thanks to you Aaron I only had to replace the switch and not the compressor! Rock on!!
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