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So as the cold mornings creep in my truck is taking longer and longer to start. I have replaced the GPR with a Stancor and seems to be getting the proper voltage.
Tested the GPs themselves and 6 of them were around 2 ohms the other 2 were around .4 ohms.
Would this be the cause of my truck taking longer to start?
If so should I replace just those 2 or all 8?
Also my check engine light comes on half the time when I start my truck, but it goes off when the GPR switches off.
How many miles on the truck? Original injectors? My brother has a Superduty he purchased with around 235K on the clock when purchased. At around 260K it got so it didn't want to start without being pluged in when the temps dropped to about 40 degrees. The glows and relay tested good, so I was at a loss. At 270 K it started making oil, so a set of good used injectors were installed, and that cured the hard starting under 40 degrees, and the oil making.
Thanks I will look into that, they seem to be a pretty cheap fix.
Originally Posted by farmert
How many miles on the truck? Original injectors? My brother has a Superduty he purchased with around 235K on the clock when purchased. At around 260K it got so it didn't want to start without being pluged in when the temps dropped to about 40 degrees. The glows and relay tested good, so I was at a loss. At 270 K it started making oil, so a set of good used injectors were installed, and that cured the hard starting under 40 degrees, and the oil making.
156k on the truck and original injectors. That was my original thought but it seems that this could just be a result of 2 failing GP's.
Originally Posted by madpogue
Glow plug cycle should NOT set the CE light. Scan it for codes.
What year truck?
It's a 96 F-350. Do I need to test it only when the light is on, or does it store those codes somewhere?
with only 156K on the injectors they should still be good for at least another 50K miles as long as the truck was properly maintained.
Originally Posted by madpogue
Code(s) will remain stored.
Perfect, thanks for the guidance. One last question, replacing the GP's seem easy enough, however is there anything that isn't the obvious that I should make sure and do when replacing them?
Do I need a new gasket for the valve covers?
I am not a mechanic by any means, just try to learn what I can from youtube
The gaskets are reusable but check the wires and pins for any damage. If there is any damage to the wiring it would be a god idea to replace them as preventative maintenance.
The gaskets are reusable but check the wires and pins for any damage. If there is any damage to the wiring it would be a god idea to replace them as preventative maintenance.
The gaskets are reusable but check the wires and pins for any damage. If there is any damage to the wiring it would be a god idea to replace them as preventative maintenance.
Perfect, thanks. I just ordered the GP's! I will report back after I get them installed.
Update: replaced the GPs and it didn't fix the problem. However I found that 5 of them were not functioning and autolite brand... So glad I did it. After trying to start it a few times noticed my 8 year old batteries were only providing 10 - 6 volts to the starter. So I went out and replaced them.
Still not starting right. Slow to start but sounds great after it gets going. It also makes an odd deep rumble for about 5 seconds after starting. Not sure if that helps. 11 volts to the starter now.