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Here's something too - does anyone know the ratio of throttle movement to TV movement - my current setup favors TV. From the throttle shaft pivot point to the throttle linkage is approximately 1" and from the throttle shaft pivot point to the TV linkage is close to 1.5".
Best piece of advice I received when setting up an AOD is that the throttle and the TV cable must move in a 1 to 1 relationship. After previously setting mine up using a pressure gauge and encountering problems, I adjust the two linkages to move in tandem and have had no problems since.
Holley 1850 (600 vac sec) on an '83-85 Mustang factory 4-bbl intake. The AOD cable and all brackets at transmission are '89 Mustang GT EFI. The upper bracket is fabricated by yours truly.
Originally Posted by jcbingcougar
Best piece of advice I received when setting up an AOD is that the throttle and the TV cable must move in a 1 to 1 relationship. After previously setting mine up using a pressure gauge and encountering problems, I adjust the two linkages to move in tandem and have had no problems since.
I did find another two references for 1:1. After spending even more time reading this morning, I'm confident the max TV cable at WOT was really a check to ensure the TV cable isn't limiting throttle, and not necessarily a required parameter.
I have redrilled my hole to be exactly 1:1. I was also able to take out a little slop in the process. I then was able to adjust the TV pressure to 35psi and it only wandered between about 32-38 or so. Road test - same as before.
Then my ignition quit again. I'm chasing an intermittent ignition issue. I thought it was my Duraspark connectors, so I replaced those. Still wouldn't start back up. So I reverified every bit of wiring, ohmed out the stator/pickup, ohmed out the coil, replaced coil with two other good ones, checked coil manually (12V & ground, remove ground & check for spark) and it's OK. I had the module tested yesterday and it checked OK...but it's the only thing. I'm going to just buy another module and if it doesn't fix it, I'll have a spare.
Then I trailered it to get the exhaust done this afternoon and my dad had to turn around and ran over the guys lawn by a foot or two. He came out yelling and ranting and told us to just leave. My dad was in the wrong, but the guy was just a jerk about it. He was a little odd on the phone, but now there's another setback.
I think it's time to push it back in the garage and have a beer.
....I'm going to just buy another module and if it doesn't fix it, I'll have a spare.
About all you can do. I've had them do that.
Originally Posted by Flat Ernie
...Then I trailered it to get the exhaust done this afternoon and my dad had to turn around and ran over the guys lawn by a foot or two. He came out yelling and ranting and told us to just leave. My dad was in the wrong, but the guy was just a jerk about it. He was a little odd on the phone, but now there's another setback.
I think it's time to push it back in the garage and have a beer.
Did you get a chance to drop the pan?? Just wondering if there was any band material in it.
I've had bad modules check OK at different parts stores. No start...replace module start and run ok.
OK, got the module, but I want it to die and then replace, so I can sort of confirm. Of course, when I got back, it fired right up with the old module. I'll wait on it to make the next move.
I did regroup after I was done pouting and dropped the pan. Not 100% convinced it was rebuilt - may have been a spray can rebuild. But, it's possible I burned up enough friction material to put that much in the pan too - the first drive, I probably went 10-12 miles before remembering the 1-D-1 way to force it into 2nd and there was plenty of neutraling on that first drive.
Regardless, I need a new tranny - at least I know now. I didn't pay much for this thing - $300 2 years ago...actually, my dad did and he's still not convinced it was ever rebuilt.
So, I'm on the phone in the morning for an exchange tranny somewhere. Got another exhaust shop lined up already...$50 more, but oh well.