Solving Header Heat Soak
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Thanks to all for your ideas and valid points/suggestions. You've given me a lot to consider. I realize that I could bolt on the efi mannies I have and be done with the header, and hopefully the heat soak problem as well. But I'm concerned about losing performance, going from collectors with 3 1/2" diameter to those with 1 11/16".
For now I replaced the aluminum spacer with a phenolic one, and added a 3/8" heat insulation gasket too. I also rerouted the fuel line. We'll see.
For now I replaced the aluminum spacer with a phenolic one, and added a 3/8" heat insulation gasket too. I also rerouted the fuel line. We'll see.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2013
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Have you thought about coating your headers? I don't have issues with my setup, granted I also have a powder coated intake and A fancy quickfuel. I do need to put a return line on, I do have fuel evaporation after a day or two of sitting.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
I am now running a Summit carb with a DP and a 1" phenolic spacer and 3/8" heat gasket. The DP makes ideal spot between head and carb for heat to build up. I don't have issues yet, but come summer and I know it will be there.
I know it is time to install the EFI manifolds I have. As stated, I hesitate due to the 1 11/16"I.D. restriction where the doughnut sits.
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Posting Guru
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I too fear about summer time, however, I'll just figure out the issue when it comes about.
I haven't given it a good test yet,but ing the future I will be making a trip(4hrs) and I'll stop and see how it is.
I do know my headers, after about an hour of running, the collectors are cool To the touch. Wether that's from the air running under the truck, or the coated headers, I don't know.
I haven't given it a good test yet,but ing the future I will be making a trip(4hrs) and I'll stop and see how it is.
I do know my headers, after about an hour of running, the collectors are cool To the touch. Wether that's from the air running under the truck, or the coated headers, I don't know.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
(The EFI don't have a doughnut, just a press fit).
FWIW
My '84 had headers on them when I got it, and I didn't want to deal with them. They were split headers, a pair of 3 into 1s (super awesome headers and I've never seen another set like them. Since there were two of them, they were easy to install/remove). They simply each dumped into a cherry bomb muffler under the cab.
I pulled all that out, installed EFI manifolds, walker y pipe, a cat, muffler, and 2.5" pipe all the way from the engine to the back.
The performance difference between the two was so minuscule that I never gave it a second thought. Granted, the engine didn't have enlarged valves and a ported head, but still.
I don't think you'll be kicking yourself over a performance difference.
FWIW
My '84 had headers on them when I got it, and I didn't want to deal with them. They were split headers, a pair of 3 into 1s (super awesome headers and I've never seen another set like them. Since there were two of them, they were easy to install/remove). They simply each dumped into a cherry bomb muffler under the cab.
I pulled all that out, installed EFI manifolds, walker y pipe, a cat, muffler, and 2.5" pipe all the way from the engine to the back.
The performance difference between the two was so minuscule that I never gave it a second thought. Granted, the engine didn't have enlarged valves and a ported head, but still.
I don't think you'll be kicking yourself over a performance difference.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
After measuring the I.D. of my new EFI mannies, 1 11/16", I became concerned with Flow and performance with that restriction.
So, I started searching for ways to vent the heat from the headers which causes hard hot starts. I tried a heat shield between the intake and carb, diverting heat around the carb, but that did not help.
Now I'm thinking of cutting a slot in the hood to allow the hot air to escape. I don't know if I could go to such extremes, but if it solves the problem and allows me to retain performance, then it may the next step. I would also add a scoop and face to toward the cowl.
While searching around for remedies, I found these photos from guys with the same issue.
So, I started searching for ways to vent the heat from the headers which causes hard hot starts. I tried a heat shield between the intake and carb, diverting heat around the carb, but that did not help.
Now I'm thinking of cutting a slot in the hood to allow the hot air to escape. I don't know if I could go to such extremes, but if it solves the problem and allows me to retain performance, then it may the next step. I would also add a scoop and face to toward the cowl.
While searching around for remedies, I found these photos from guys with the same issue.
Here you go, F-250 restorer!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...coop-f850.html
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Another forum member, Trozei, was nice enough to mention that even when he had to drive around without a hood, it helped but did not eliminate the problem. Because of that I have done away with the idea of a vent or scoop.
It seems resistance is futile. I shall have to install the EFI's. I'm gearing up to do dual 2.25" to a muffler, with either dual 2.25 out one side, or a singe 2.5" out the rear passenger corner. Funny, but a 2.25" tail pipe costs $14. A 2.5" one costs $55. I could do dual 2.25" for less than 1/2 the price of a single 2.5".
It seems resistance is futile. I shall have to install the EFI's. I'm gearing up to do dual 2.25" to a muffler, with either dual 2.25 out one side, or a singe 2.5" out the rear passenger corner. Funny, but a 2.25" tail pipe costs $14. A 2.5" one costs $55. I could do dual 2.25" for less than 1/2 the price of a single 2.5".