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Removing wire connector from IGN switch

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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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Removing wire connector from IGN switch

While troubleshooting my problem with the blower motor running without a key in the ignition, an old Ford mechanic suggested I pull the wire connector from the ignition switch to eliminate the possibility that
the ignition switch is bad. BUT, banging my head does not help me remove the wire connector.Is there a key (pun intended) to pulling the connector. I'm assuming the white / light grey plastic pulls away from the black item? I've pulled and pulled and still nothing.
Thanks,
Bob

76 F250

 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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There 2 locking tabs that hold it in place, pry them back a little and it should pull off
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 05:20 PM
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If you remove the outer ring on the front of the key switch the switch will pull out from under the dash, you can see it better and it's easier to test wires with the switch hooked up.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Montecz
That was so helpful...thank you.
Well, the problem wasn't the switch so I'm back to square one.
Misplaced my multi-meter so it's off to the parts store for a new meter.
I have to check continuity on a few wires per dlburch's helpful hints.
Thanks again
Bob
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 08:34 PM
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Not a problem, I hope that you can get it figured, as far as that heater running maybe something is back feeding through the wiring.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 09:08 PM
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Montecz
Something is definitely back feeding from somewhere.
The truck has aftermarket cruise control so I'm going to check those wires next.
So frustrating.
Bob
 
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:19 PM
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I understand the frustration, I have ran across a lot of wiring problems over the years. Has this acted like this since you got it? Maybe the problem is at the fuse box, try pulling the fuse and test both sides of the fuse holder, that should only be hot when the key is on, it is possible that a wire broke behind there and is touching the post behind the box.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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Remove the negative cable from the battery.
Hook a test light to the neg. cable.
Then touch the test light probe to the neg. battery terminal, if the light comes on you have a short to ground.
Start pulling fuses till the light goes out, that should be your problem circuit.

Not sure this will do it for you, but it's worth a try.

Dennis
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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I'll get to try all your suggestions this weekend.
Thanks for your suggestions...much appreciated and I will respond with the cure...hopefully.
Bob
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 04:51 PM
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Good idea, if you have a newer radio that has a memory that will make it light up though, if unhook the radio it should work
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 05:10 PM
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I junked the aftermarket Radio Shack radio since it didn't work when I bought the truck. Looking for a replacement right now...nothing special, just AM/FM.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Then the test light should work
 
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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The source of my problem with the blower fan running without key was the relay.
PO had it mounted without a good clean base for ground (paint free).
I sanded a spot under the dash to bare metal, mounted the new relay and everything works according to Henry Ford.
Thanks for all the help...you guys are alright
Bob

 
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