Ok, a few months ago i but this 77. Runs good, did a few repairs here and there. The clutch was catching about 2-3 inches from the floor board when i got her. Looked at the linkages, found that it was adjustable and began to adjust it just like the hayes manual says. Clutch still catches at about the same height as before but not the pedal will not return to the full upright position is used to. The clutch doesnt stay enguaged but right where it actually doesnt enguage, it ends its travel back up. Right were it stops is about a hair off from the brake pedal. Maybe the clutch has had it or im thinking its a backyard mechanic problem ( IE. ME the rookie ). Any ideas that help are greatly appreciated guys. Thanks

 

Ok, no offense here BlackBetty,,,, but I can't understand what in the h^ll you are trying to say....
Maybe think it over and try again, might be the reason no responses....
Joe

 

Ok, the truck is Obviously a Manual Tranmission. Its a 4SPD with the 1st gear creeper. The clutch was catching very low ( Meaning the pedal was close to the floor before i could get the truck into ANY gear ). I used my truck book to see how to adjust the clutch linkages. When i did it by the book, the clutch free play didnt improve many but now the pedal will not return to the top position. The clutch still works, tranny will let me shift but the pedal lines up right where the brake pedal is. The correct way is the pedal is supposed to be about 2-3 more inches higher up towards the drivers seat

 

If you are not grinding gears or having a hard time when you shift, that means the clutch is working fine. I would just leave it alone in that case. Worse case just reverse what you did to the linkage, it should go back. If not your clutch return spring could be bad or out of position.

 

hey guy Ive got a 77 ford also with a 4spd tranny. check the clutch return spring under the dash Its a big round one make sure it is not broke. If it is push the clutch down to remove it be careful. If you do have a bad spring try to get a new one wnen putting the new one in put it in a vise get some good bailing wire an wire it compressed then install it when you have it installed cut the bailing wire with a wire cutter be careful it will have tension on it. and change the clutch return spring by the linkage on the bottom by the adjustment rod also this should do it. I just did this to my truck works great dont let the clutch pedal lay down without any free play. the clutch pedal must have free play. hope I could help you out (joe from N.J.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I did like everyone asked, and the transmission has no problems as far as when trying to get into any gear, it never ground trying to get into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or reverse. I also checked the return spring, it has very good recoil or compression as you guys said. So is it a novel idea to just readjust the clutch linkage back to where it was before and hope the pedal will return to its old way. Like i said, the clutch works dandy and everything but it seems like when you depress the pedal, you can push lightly with your foot, the pedal will go down all the way to about the same spot as where the brake pedal is when its at rest (Where the pedal stops when you release it ) and it will stay there. the clutch isnt enguaged but its like maybe the linkages are out of line or something because from that spot, i can push like 2 inches more to enguage the clutch and when i release the clutch, it wont go all the way back up, it will disenguage and return the the half-way spot and rest at the same level as th brake.

 

The clutch pedal return spring is not under the dash, this is:

D7TZ7534A .. Clutch Pedal Lever Assist Spring-7 Coils.

The clutch pedal return spring attaches to the clutch equalizer bar on one end, the other end attaches to an L shaped bracket that bolts to the frame rail forward of the e-bar.

D7TZ7523D .. Clutch Pedal Return Spring / Fits: 1977/79 F100/350 4WD / 1978/79 Bronco / Obsolete

D7TZ7523F .. Clutch Pedal Return Spring / Fits: 1977/79 F100/350 2WD / Obsolete

77BlackBetty: The parts catalog doesn't list the length of the spring(s), and both are obsolete, but several obsolete parts vendors have new originals.

What I would do is order a new spring from one of the vendors listed below.

While an autoparts store may have something that matches your old spring, after 32 years, it may not be the correct one.

Green Sales in Cincinnati OH has 9 of the 2WD springs = 800-543-4959

Miller Obsolete Parts in Binghamton NY has 2 of the 2WD springs = 800-542-7278

Dale King Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has ONE of the 4WD springs (no one else has any) = 606-787-5031

 

Ok, i will call Dale King to see if i can buy this spring. Do you really think thats it though? I have checked that spring many times now to see how its compression is and it seems thater good, but i do not know that original specs.

 

You have 4WD, correct? You didn't mention that originally.

Dale King has the 4WD clutch return spring.

The clutch return spring is under the floorpan hooked to the clutch equalizer bar and frame rail bracket, it is not under the dash.

The spring you have now may not be the original, but even if it is, it's 32 years old, the clutch pedal has been depressed, what 100,000 + times...so how much tensile strength does it have left?

 

Ok, ill end up getting the new spring in hopes that this is it. Also, the "Paddle" that comes out of the bellhousing for the clutch, should that have some play. it seems that if pull it as if i were trying to remove it from the bellhousing, it wont come out but it will pull away about an inch or so. Could this too create the problem or is this normal to the wear and tare of this beast?

 

did the peddle com backup all the way before you adjusted it if it did probably is not your spring unless you removed it to adjust it and damaged it or hooked it in the wrong place. I have seen the holes and pins in the linkage get real sloppy and cause this also.

 

Sounds to me like you have more problems than a new spring can fix. :/

My "clutch arm" won't pull in and out like that.
I've got only about 230K miles on mine but got 2 more years on it. ;)

Chevy uses a ball'n'socket setup and Ford uses a "straight edge" for a pivot
point. Neither should be slipping in and out without putting "too" much force
on it, like, as if you were trying to screw it up or something.

First time I took my crank assembly apart I did what I could to make it work
and hold-up the best I could. Bought nylon bearings from Ford (extras even)
and made new felt seals for it that were better than the originals.

That's what you do when it's yours. ;)

That's the sort of silly stuff you've done that makes it so 33+1/2 years later
you've never had an inch of trouble from it, ever. :)

I did such a good job the first time I still have extra bearings, the grease and felt has done their job I guess.

When you tear into this clutch problem how are you going to fix it tho?
Slap it back together fast as you can, like there's a stopwatch involved? ;)

If so, then at least you'll be in with the crowd. :)

Climb under that sucker (get some cardboard or something to lay on) and
tell us what's the matter with it. :) No kidding, you can do it. :)

Got a service manual?

Alvin in AZ

 

sorry parts guru didnt know we get so technical on this forum. OK blackbetty check your clutch fork also make sure its not bent. as you adjust the clutch it may not engage 1inch and 1/2 from the floor like it should. you can adjust it to bring your pedal to the return point where its should be. If your springs are very old change them out they are worn out. this way you can drive down the road without worry. I did this to my ford and it is great. Just make sure you have free play at the top end of the pedal

 

Slop in clutch linkage:

The e-bar takes two nylon bushings, two felt washers and two E clips to retain the bushings to the two clutch pivots.

When if ever, have these parts been replaced? Are the nylon bushings still in place, or have they broken apart and are now missing?

C1AA7543A .. Nylon Bushing / Fits: 1961/66 F100/250 2WD / ALL 1967/79 F100/350's.

358979S .. Felt Washer / Same application as above.

97474S .. E Clip / Same application as above.

All these parts are available from Ford for less than 10 bucks.
-----------------------------------------------------------
The long rod from the clutch pedal bellcrank to the e-bar has one nylon bushing on each end. Over time, these two bushings wear down, fall apart.

When that occurs, the 90 degree ends on the rod develop cracks, eventually snap off.

COAZ7526B .. Nylon Bushing / Fits: 1961/77 F100/350's / 1978's before serial # BA0,001.

Also available from Ford for a whopping $2.05 each.

These two bushings should be replaced at least every couple of years.

If the ends of that rod snap off, you're SOL, because it's obsolete, no longer available from Ford and finding the correct used rod in decent condition (there's 8 different ones 1961/79), will not be EZ.

 

What's so technical about typing the correct info?

Having someone looking under the dash for the clutch return spring when it's really on the e-bar is not only mis-leading, but in-correct.

Maybe you don't care, but I do...otherwise I wouldn't be here on FTE.

With 18,700 + posts in TWO years, and with 2100 rep points...peeps do care about what I type, technical or not.