Key fob question
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Key fob question
This isn't really too big of a deal; really just a bit of an annoyance...but I'm wondering if anybody else's remote entry key fob does this.
My 2003 Explorer's fob has to have the unlock button held down for a few seconds before the driver door will unlock. And then of course pressed again for the other doors to unlock. It does respond instantly to the lock button and other buttons.
But with my 2003 Mustang, I just push and release the unlock button and the driver door unlocks...then again to unlock the passenger door. I do believe my dad's 2005 Explorer operates this way as well.
Does my Explorer's fob have a bad contact behind it? Dying battery? The little icons have worn away on the buttons so I was at least thinking of picking up a replacement casing...
My 2003 Explorer's fob has to have the unlock button held down for a few seconds before the driver door will unlock. And then of course pressed again for the other doors to unlock. It does respond instantly to the lock button and other buttons.
But with my 2003 Mustang, I just push and release the unlock button and the driver door unlocks...then again to unlock the passenger door. I do believe my dad's 2005 Explorer operates this way as well.
Does my Explorer's fob have a bad contact behind it? Dying battery? The little icons have worn away on the buttons so I was at least thinking of picking up a replacement casing...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,815
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Since the lock button works fine, I suspect the issue is the unlock button is worn or the conductive pad on the membrane is contaminated. It's been awhile since I've had a Ford fob apart to recall if it's a membrane contact or a physical button.
There are rubber keypad repair kits available, but the less expensive option would be to purchase a new key fob case with membrane keypad. These can be found pretty inexpensively on the popular auction site. You then move your circuit card assembly and battery from your fob to the new case and keypad. You'll want to clean the contacts on the keypad with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab.
If your fob has physical tact switches, you can replace the switches with new ones from Digi-Key or Mouser, or you could swap the switch with one from the Panic function if you rarely use that.
-Rod
There are rubber keypad repair kits available, but the less expensive option would be to purchase a new key fob case with membrane keypad. These can be found pretty inexpensively on the popular auction site. You then move your circuit card assembly and battery from your fob to the new case and keypad. You'll want to clean the contacts on the keypad with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab.
If your fob has physical tact switches, you can replace the switches with new ones from Digi-Key or Mouser, or you could swap the switch with one from the Panic function if you rarely use that.
-Rod
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Rod,
Thanks! It essentially turned out to be contaminated. These fobs have the physical contact button it seems.
Just after I posted the topic, I initially took the fob apart and saw what I first thought to be moisture on the back of the rubber pad. When I went to wipe it off with my finger, it was actually sticky. So I cleaned the pad off then looked at the entire assembly and found it to be a bit gunked up. I cleaned everything else off and got it looking as good as I could but the button still wasn't working quite right.
Then I saw your post and the mention of cleaning the contacts with alcohol...I knew there had to be something because it seemed like the unlock button wasn't clicking like the other three were when I had the circuit board out. I got ahold of some rubbing alcohol, took the fob apart again, and cleaned the button a bit and it became a little more responsive. After snapping everything back together it seems that the unlock button is working just as it should.
Thanks again!
Thanks! It essentially turned out to be contaminated. These fobs have the physical contact button it seems.
Just after I posted the topic, I initially took the fob apart and saw what I first thought to be moisture on the back of the rubber pad. When I went to wipe it off with my finger, it was actually sticky. So I cleaned the pad off then looked at the entire assembly and found it to be a bit gunked up. I cleaned everything else off and got it looking as good as I could but the button still wasn't working quite right.
Then I saw your post and the mention of cleaning the contacts with alcohol...I knew there had to be something because it seemed like the unlock button wasn't clicking like the other three were when I had the circuit board out. I got ahold of some rubbing alcohol, took the fob apart again, and cleaned the button a bit and it became a little more responsive. After snapping everything back together it seems that the unlock button is working just as it should.
Thanks again!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 83
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
That's a pretty common occurrence with home electronics remote controls as well. From what I've read, that sticky goo is finger oils that make their way through the rubber membrane which is why it shows up more on the commonly used contacts.
Just don't scrub the keypad side with the alcohol that it rubs the conductive pad off. The circuit board can survive more aggressive cleaning, but remove the battery first.
-Rod
Just don't scrub the keypad side with the alcohol that it rubs the conductive pad off. The circuit board can survive more aggressive cleaning, but remove the battery first.
-Rod
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ptf18
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