When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ive read that 165* is the ideal temp for an auto. Running too cool can be bad too however. Pulling a trans is not too bad, installing is a little different, auto is alot easier though.
My truck is 4WD. I have two regular floor jacks, but not a transmission jack. That's a bit too far in to the deep end I think, but we'll see what the local shop says first. The bigger the bill, the more motivated I become
yeah the seal is less than 10 bucks.it's the labor that's gunna get ya.you can do it yourself too."generally" it's just a matter of dropping the trans,sliding out the converter,picking out the old seal and tapping in another and done.
i didn't get so lucky with log truck as the bushing in the pump walked forward and i educated myself on what to do there too.i learned the hard way with 5 trans pulls but now i have more experience there to tackle front pump issues down the road.
by the sounds of it,you probably don't have bushing issues and it just needs a seal.when the bushing walks forward,it blocks off the drain back hole in the pump and pushes the fluid past the seal.........that's a gush! lol.
yours is 2wd right? you can drop that trans,replace the seal and have it back in,even if you've not pulled a trans before well inside a day.have ya got a floor jack?
see that drain tube though.you can get under there and pull that off and take a look.it may just be holding what already leaked past the overheated seal and that's just whats dripping.so don't be in a big hurry to replace the seal until ya keep an eye on it for a bit.
I think that may be likely since the tube is higher than the bottom of the cover the cover becomes a reservoir.
For safety's sake, especially for a first timer, I recommend using a transmission jack. They have a pretty good one @ HF or you can just rent one. The E4OD is a monster.
I had a transmission slip of a floor jack once, still have a scar from that one. Most unpleasant.
with all the trans iv dropped over the years,i sure would feel some spoiled with the right jack......im putting that on my "tools list" when i get my shop built.
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
That chart might have been accurate back in the 60's. It is not even in the ballpark for modern transmissions.
fell free to post up a modern chart Mark.that's just something i grabbed via quick google.
looks about like what im agreement with though.i suppose you could push the temps up a bit more than back in the day,there's really no reason to go beyond 240F range.with a good aux cooler setup like the tru-cool he's got ordered,he probably wont ever see over 210F anyway.
the toque converter does not lock in second gear. ever. so when speeds drop due to step hills the converter will make a lot of heat, stock converters can turn blue from the heat,, warp and melt or weaken the seal. get a large plate type cooler. and if you rebuild it its about $3,800 get a triple lock billet low stall converter if no turbo,standard stall with turbo
the toque converter does not lock in second gear. ever.
i used to think that as well until stated otherwise on here.i found a hill where she would remain in 2nd starting out on and i hit the hazards and sure enough while in 2nd,the converter unlocked.i could just never tell it locked up in those situations until i checked it out.
see that drain tube though.you can get under there and pull that off and take a look.it may just be holding what already leaked past the overheated seal and that's just whats dripping.so don't be in a big hurry to replace the seal until ya keep an eye on it for a bit.
I didn't see that part of your post before, woops. Good catch, I didn't think about that! As soon as I get some time I'll pull it off and check it out, if I give it a good cleaning I should be able to see if it's still leaking or not.
You guys are way too good with these trucks. I'm starting to think that the only reason there are still E4OD's on the road is because of these forums, if it weren't for you guys they'd probably have all been crushed by now
Diesel PCM's ask for lockup after the shift to 3rd gear. when speed is 28-35 mph, only two ways to get lock up in second gear, if the PCM down shifts the trans and you have not touched the brake at WOT. or if the trans is over heated. some 91-92 gasser f 150's PCM's would lock in second gear. In most normal operational parameters the factory 89-92 Diesel E4od will not call for lock up. some later years may as PCM's changed and went to pulse with modulation to control line pressure and shift feel. if your e4od shifts to OD when below 70 degree's internal temp, you have a malfunctioning sending unit. there are several different e4od PCM's including police, and ambulance, that have different shift points I am not certain of compatibility with Diesel applications.
I got the vent cover off today. Just like you guys said, there was some fluid in the bottom and the vent cover was acting like a reservoir. I cleaned it up and put it back on, then took it for a drive.
I noticed that after the drive, there was a little droplet hanging off the end of the tube, and it looked a little misty. I'm hoping that's just the vent tube doing its job and not fluid still getting past the seal. I'm not gonna worry about it for now, just gonna keep tabs on it and see what happens.
In the mean time, the cooler and gauge will have to wait. I have to give up my truck for a week or two and drive the POS Lincoln. The driver seat is badly broken and it's not safe to drive on the freeway currently, so we're playing musical cars: I get the deathtrap, my dad gets my truck, and my brother gets my dads truck. Somehow I think I got the short end of the stick here
cool.you might get lucky then.just keep an eye on it and try not to run up the side of the mountain without the aux cooler and you just might be alright.
Yup, no more mountain roads for a while. It's going to be a strictly freeway baby for a while.
Hey, while I'm thinking about it, since the trans needs to be dropped to fix the seal, is it worth swapping in a new low-stall torque converter? My truck is just a daily driver, but it feels like the entire low RPM range is being wasted. My TC gets the engine to the high RPM range pretty fast, but there ain't anything up there except noise and bad MPG
Since I hopefully have some time to save money, I might as well make the most of it if it's a worthwhile upgrade. What do you guys think?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.