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Got a problem starting in my '94 F150 4x4 5spd, 300-6 truck.
Doesn't do it all the time, but doing it more and more often now.
Only when up-shifting from either 1st to 2nd, or 3rd to 4th, doesn't do it going into 5th.
I step on the clutch like I always do, shift, and the shifter just stops before going in gear, doesn't grind, but doesn't wanna go in gear at all, almost need to pull it with both hands, it's that bad! When it does go in, goes in just fine.
Just seems to bind up for a moment. If I try and put it back in the gear it was in, no problem, slides right in like butter.
The truck just turned to 160,000km (99k miles).
The clutch, pressure plate, bearings, slave, and clutch master are all new!
If I'm parked, step on the clutch, don't even need to go all the way down, and I can very easily shift in all gears, it only seems to bind up when the trucks moving.
I never abused it in the 3 years i've had it, never had a hitch on it to tow either. Worked perfect till now.
I changed the oil in it 2 months ago as well. Helped alot, been shifting like brand new since I changed it.
Any ideas on what can it be? I didn't check fluid level yet, as it's been -10F for a week here now, but I can't imagine it being low, wasn't low when I replaced the fluid, so I don't see why it would of leaked all of a sudden.
The common shifter bushing problem on these, is still tight as well on this one.
I'm no expert so you might want to wait for someone with more knowledge about transmissions to comment, but i'll bet its your syncro's. Not matching up thus preventing you from shifting when you desire, just my two cents.
My clutch job and in fact it was the first 'real repair' I've done on the ford. But, I used Castrol Merc/Dex Transmax ATF and for the last couple days and it's been cold as hell here too...it's been just like new. Not sure if your fluid is to blame or not but ya know it's probably not a bad idea to 'refill and top up if you need to...sounds like you've covered all the bases...did by chance you use and OEM slave cylinder? I've read horror stories of the aftermarket failures...but your write up sounds like the pedal feels good...so...I guess verify the fluid...I doubt it is synchros or you'd most likely have the issue all the time...GL
Slave is not OEM, but that's not the problem, as when i'm sitting still, I shift in all gears fine, pedal is perfect.
When the transmission is cold, no problem, it's only after it warms up from driving that it will start doing that. When it's cold, it'll feel abit gummy, but shifts easy and great.
Slave is not OEM, but that's not the problem, as when i'm sitting still, I shift in all gears fine, pedal is perfect.
I have the same issue with my M5OD. Can't get it into 2nd when the truck is rolling. New slave, new clutch, new pressure plate and still the same issue for me also. Two independent transmission shops (neither was the one who replaced the slave, clutch, pressure plate) diagnosed it as a bad synchro.
I'm waiting for it to get as bad as your's until I put a rebuilt one in.
yeah the synchro's and the shift forks like to frig up in these low end units.try double clutching.that gets old with a 5 spd i know but it works.after replacing the fork and having it happen again within 6 months i just double clutched my way into a heavier duty truck with e40d and a pesky flashing od light
really if you intend to keep your truck for a few years and don't want a left leg twice the size as your right,it would be fairly wise to swap in a zf5.
I've got to thoughts on this. Either the detents are hanging up and not allowing the shifter to move easily or the brass is actually that worn and causing shifting issue.
The synchros are tapered brass rings, with very fine ribs on the ID.
These ribs are what actually "grab" the tapered cone on the gear when you trying shifting. Over time those ribs wear down and then they don't grab the gear as well. The teeth on the OD of the brass has to match up with the teeth on the gear. If it does finally grab the gear the teeth may be out of alignment and won't allow the slider to go over and get to the gear teeth. This could cause your hard shifting issue. Kinda like hitting a brick wall.
Here is slider assy
When sitting still, and just pushing the clutch and shifting you are not really using the brass as the output shaft is not spinning so there is not much need for the synchros to do much. They are just stopping the cluster shaft from a slow speed rotation when you first step on the clutch. Not like when you are going 35 mph and the two shafts are going a much bigger difference in speed.
When you shift and it won't go in, just release the clutch quickly and then push it again and see if it falls in. This will tell you if the brass is in the way.
One thing I do know, don't ever rest your hand on the shifter while driving. It will wear the shift forks right off. I'm rebuilding a box currently that someone did that. The 3/4 fork was paper thin and just about to not be able to shift it anymore. I know they have alum and steel forks, this was a steel fork unit.
Yep that's exactly what it feels like, hitting a brick wall when I shift.
I don't rest my hand on any shifter in any vehicle as I know it wears out shift forks, especially in these.
It shifts fine if I float the gear without touching the clutch. Looks like i'm gonna be driving it like that or double clutching till summer, as i'm not doing any major work to it in this weather, it's just a winter beater anyways.
I haven't had this problem with my truck, but I have had this happen on the wifes Saturn and my sons Toyota, The problem was bad motor \ trans mounts and when pressure was on them (When Driving) they would cause the trans to bind. Just sitting in one spot it they would shift like butter. Replaced the mounts and no more problems. It's just a suggestion, doesn't hurt to look at them.
If it floats fine, then likely the brass teeth are getting in the way of the slider and making it impossible to get into gear. Floating allows the gears to naturally match speed an engage thus not relying on the brass.
The brass is engaged to the slider hub by three small keys, so they rotate the same speed as the output shaft at all times.
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