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Weird Starting problem

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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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Weird Starting problem

My wife's 2001 Lic/Nav has a weird starting problems for about the last two weeks, and I wanted to see if you guys have any ideas before it take it to the dealer.

When we start it for the first time for the day, it will die out immediately or hold a very rough idle and then die out. At first she would try to restart it right away and but the problem would continue.

I'd been having depress the go peddle while she turns the key and keep it idling until it smooths out, but that's rough on the engine.

The best bet after a false start has been to turn the key fully OFF, give the computer 5 or 10 seconds to regain its composure and the 2nd time around it will start and idle smoothly like nothing ever happened and will start Ok rest of the day or until it cools down all the way. But the last day or so it's been worse with false starts even when it's warm.

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 06:14 PM
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From: The OC
Sounds like a weak and/or dying fuel pump. Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. Also try turning the key to on but don't start it for 3-5 seconds to let the fuel pressure build up, then try to start it.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2015 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lv2race
Sounds like a weak and/or dying fuel pump. Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. Also try turning the key to on but don't start it for 3-5 seconds to let the fuel pressure build up, then try to start it.
This morning on the cold start I waited about 20 seconds so I could hear the fuel pump run up pressure. With all the pos bells and gongs going off I couldn't hear a thing, but when I started it ran perfect - smooth idle, no hesitation.

I was worried it might be a fuel pump. Thought if it was a pressure reg or bad injector the problem might be more consistent.

I'll dig out my pressure gauge and give it a whirl. Is the tank easy access?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 11:55 PM
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From: The OC
Originally Posted by teagueAMX
Is the tank easy access?
Yes and no, depending on the equipment you have to raise the truck and the tools you have available. An impact driver with sockets and extensions are ideal for bolt removal, a spanner wrench usually available at a parts store makes the retainer ring removal easy, fuel line disconnect tool, a siphon to drain the gas to make the tank lighter, and of coarse jacks and supports. Check the video and note the tools he is using.
I remove the spare tire for extra room and easier access to the vent hoses. The vent hoses can be a pain to remove so I cut mine off with a razor blade as it's not a bad idea to replace them anyway and I didn't want to break the plastic parts on the tank. Take a pic of those vent lines before you remove them as there are 2 in the same area and can get confusing upon reassembly. Remove the filler hose and siphon the gas into another container if needed. It's WAY easier with an empty tank.
Watch the video for the detailed method for pump replacement, it's easy if you have the tools and equipment. Good Luck!

 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:09 PM
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I should have made my question more clear. Sorry.

I have jacks, compressor, impact tools. Thing is I'm 57 and I've sort of signed off working on newer cars because I don't have the proper diagnostic equipment. I mean, that Snapon diagnostic tool is a nice piece, but given a choice of spending $10K plus vs the dealer, I've been taking it to the dealer.

I have replaced fuel pumps - did one on 2000 Merc Sable and it wasn't that difficult. I know the Nav is basically a Ford Explorer/Expedition with more bells and whistles, but also electronics that require special attention.

I don't have a floor lift or a trans jack, so I'm not sure if the tank is directly accessible or if there are cross members and such in the way. Example: my '88 S-10 blazer has a cross member such that I cannot drop the trans oil pan unless I take the trans out of the car. Really, it's not that bad, but almost. So the last time I needed to change my S-10 trans fluid I took it to one of those quick lube places who talked me into a "trans flush". Total BS, the issue is they didn't properly seat the trans fluid cooler connection at my radiator. On a long drive it leaked and I had to replace the trans. Tried to get recourse with the lube joint but the car has tons of miles on it and then the lube joint chain went out of business.

Those are the kind of things I don't know about - are their electronics connect to the tank or in the way. That kind of stuff.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by lv2race
Yes and no, depending on the equipment you have to raise the truck and the tools you have available. An impact driver with sockets and extensions are ideal for bolt removal, a spanner wrench usually available at a parts store makes the retainer ring removal easy, fuel line disconnect tool, a siphon to drain the gas to make the tank lighter, and of coarse jacks and supports. Check the video and note the tools he is using.
I remove the spare tire for extra room and easier access to the vent hoses. The vent hoses can be a pain to remove so I cut mine off with a razor blade as it's not a bad idea to replace them anyway and I didn't want to break the plastic parts on the tank. Take a pic of those vent lines before you remove them as there are 2 in the same area and can get confusing upon reassembly. Remove the filler hose and siphon the gas into another container if needed. It's WAY easier with an empty tank.
Watch the video for the detailed method for pump replacement, it's easy if you have the tools and equipment. Good Luck!

How to Install Fuel Pump E2297S 1999 - 2002 Ford Expedition & 1999 Lincoln Navigator - YouTube
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by teagueAMX
I mean, that Snapon diagnostic tool is a nice piece, but given a choice of spending $10K plus vs the dealer, I've been taking it to the dealer.
You'll still spend that same $10K, just slower.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:50 PM
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From: The OC
I'm 53, just did the fuel pump two months ago, but getting under the truck and the up and down takes its toll, so I hear ya.

Sounds like you have everything you need, the connectors are easy access and the hoses require a little extra work as they may be on very tight due to the barb on the fittings. A floor jack works fine with a piece of plywood for support, nothing is in the way, disconnect the lines as you lower the tank, and an empty tank will make it a breeze.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
You'll still spend that same $10K, just slower.
So true!!

A piece at a time but it adds up. Plus it seems that something always always goes wrong with something else in 2 - 3 months. That doesn't seem to happen when I do my own work.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 02:29 PM
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Sure appreciate the help.

Originally Posted by lv2race
I'm 53, just did the fuel pump two months ago, but getting under the truck and the up and down takes its toll, so I hear ya.

Sounds like you have everything you need, the connectors are easy access and the hoses require a little extra work as they may be on very tight due to the barb on the fittings. A floor jack works fine with a piece of plywood for support, nothing is in the way, disconnect the lines as you lower the tank, and an empty tank will make it a breeze.
 
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