Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Coolant leak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-11-2015, 05:06 PM
ChefJeff1's Avatar
ChefJeff1
ChefJeff1 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Coolant leak

Hi, I have a 1994 F-250 460 with a small coolant leak. It's from the upper radiator tank, drivers side, where an old line enters. The line is not in use anymore due to a new tranny cooler. The leak seems to be coming from behind the washer. My mechanic tightened it but doesn't want to tighten it any more because it might crack the tank. The leak doesn't amount to a lot of coolant but I want to fix it.
What are my options to repair it? I was thinking of draining the coolant to below the fitting, disassembling it and using something like jb weld or a high temp rtv sealant to seal it, and then put it back together.
Here's some pics.
Thanks, Jeff







 
  #2  
Old 01-11-2015, 05:37 PM
ncranchero's Avatar
ncranchero
ncranchero is offline
Postmaster

Join Date: May 2003
Location: E.Lincoln County, NC
Posts: 3,310
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Radiator repair shop.
I think there's a rubber washer on the inside and outside of the cooler.
 
  #3  
Old 01-15-2015, 04:55 PM
ChefJeff1's Avatar
ChefJeff1
ChefJeff1 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A bad o ring should be easy enough to fix. Any other tips, hints, or tricks before I start to take it apart?
 
  #4  
Old 01-15-2015, 05:57 PM
pcurtice's Avatar
pcurtice
pcurtice is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Let us know how that fix goes?
 
  #5  
Old 02-23-2015, 11:49 AM
ChefJeff1's Avatar
ChefJeff1
ChefJeff1 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Permatex black RTV did the trick. I just loosened the nut, smeared it on the washer and tightened it up. No more leaks.
 
  #6  
Old 02-23-2015, 11:55 AM
Ranger1980's Avatar
Ranger1980
Ranger1980 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Why are you bypassing the in tank cooler? Fluid/fluid coolers work so much better than air/fluid. Plus, the in tank cooler actually WARMS trans fluid to operating temp in cold weather/low power situations.
 
  #7  
Old 02-23-2015, 12:01 PM
ChefJeff1's Avatar
ChefJeff1
ChefJeff1 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My mechanic said this is better cause the coolant is actually hotter than you want the trans fluid to be. The original way didn't work too good on the old tranny. It overheated and died hauling my camper over a mountain pass. That was a fun night...
 
  #8  
Old 02-23-2015, 12:16 PM
Ranger1980's Avatar
Ranger1980
Ranger1980 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your mechanic fed you a line. Aux trans coolers should be plumbed into the rad cooler feed line, out of the aux cooler into the rad cooler, then back to trans. You do it this way to prevent a hot trans from overheating engine coolant. Almost 1/2 of an auto equipped vehicle's cooling system load is the transmission. At least that is how it was told to me years back when I worked at a radiator shop.
 
  #9  
Old 02-23-2015, 07:15 PM
eakermeld's Avatar
eakermeld
eakermeld is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: South Central,MO
Posts: 2,166
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Ranger1980
Your mechanic fed you a line. Aux trans coolers should be plumbed into the rad cooler feed line, out of the aux cooler into the rad cooler, then back to trans. You do it this way to prevent a hot trans from overheating engine coolant. Almost 1/2 of an auto equipped vehicle's cooling system load is the transmission. At least that is how it was told to me years back when I worked at a radiator shop.
Your mechanic sort-of fed you a line too. There is no way an overheated trans could put enough heat in that little bitty heat transfer strip inside a radiator to overheat an engine unless the engine was right on the edge of overheating anyway.
The aux cooler to rad and back to trans is the normal way to plumb in a cooler for normally COLD climates, like the northern part of the U.S.
Rad to aux cooler back to trans is the normal way for WARMER climates, and the way 90% of them are plumbed, even from the factory.
You are right that they need both.
 
  #10  
Old 02-24-2015, 02:40 AM
TexasGuy001's Avatar
TexasGuy001
TexasGuy001 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,920
Received 207 Likes on 167 Posts
I had the exact same problem on my truck a few weeks ago. I used Permatex on it as well. I think there is supposed to be a rubber seal. The new radiator did not have it.

I agree with the others comments about connecting as it was stock.

I thought that having the trans lines connected to the radiator was also supposed to help the trans stay warm in cold weather.
 
  #11  
Old 02-24-2015, 11:06 AM
ChefJeff1's Avatar
ChefJeff1
ChefJeff1 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yep, there is a rubber washer on the inside of the tank. Pulling on the line snugs it up. I didn't see a reasonable way of replacing the washer without a production.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JVR
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
0
09-30-2018 03:57 PM
COVeteran
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
8
11-20-2017 12:59 PM
Amicus
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
0
10-28-2017 10:13 AM
TchTchr
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
1
11-12-2013 10:06 PM
clintusaf
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
15
09-07-2010 03:33 PM



Quick Reply: Coolant leak



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:46 AM.