Any tips for removing the plastic film/sheet glued onto the door frame under the door panel?
It is my understanding that the plastic film was installed there by Ford to protect the door panel from getting wet on the inside.
I installed new window regulator door plugs in the tailgate (see thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...ear-plugs.html ) and now it is time to do the same in the door window regulators, but I would like to remove the plastic film in such a way that it is re-usable if at all possible.
The O'Reilly's guy suggested a heat gun (won't it shrink the plastic) or to try some type of adhesive remover.
Any suggestions?

And yes, I used the search this forum function first and came up with this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...r-plastic.html

Which is not really on point to my question because my film is fine. It has never been removed. So I just want to remove it, keep it in good shape, and reuse it.

 

Heat gun and patience if you want to reuse, and slow pulling. otherwise snip snip.

 

i would not use a heat gun.
i slowly pull it off, and if any of the rubber glue sticks i cut it with a razor knife.
then when it is time to reinstall the plastic i just put it back in the same place.

 

I always just rip that stuff off and toss it. Never had water in my doors on any vehicle except when I drive into it on purpose, but that sheeting ain't gonna do crap in that case.

When it rains here, it sometimes seriously RAINS and my truck has no plastic sheeting AND both window glass seals crumbled to dust... no water leaks in the doors that I've ever seen.

 

X2

I do the exact same thing.

 

That's the approach I've taken in the past. It just takes a little patience, but goes smoothly.

 

and as far as removing it goes, it is there to cut down on air getting into the passenger compartment through the window channel, not to keep the door panel dry.
it makes a big difference between keeping it there with the door sealed and ripping it off and tossing it.
if i take a door apart that does not have it, i replace it with a heavy 6 mil plastic, or even an industrial trash bag.
the customers would come back saying "i don't know what you did, but the car is quieter and warmer since you fixed the door"

 

tjc transport: Aren't you also the same guy who "beat anorexia?" lol...

And yes, dude when it is 0F or colder I want as much of an air/vapor barrier as possible. In fact, don't they do the same thing with houses these days, provide an air/vapor barrier under the finish wall next to the heated interior?

 

Hot summer day, windows rolled up to warm up the interior. The plastic liner will peel right off. Also there is less chance of cracking a door panel vs a cold winter day(I learned that the hard way). I need to replace the window motor in my 92' passenger door, but I ain't touching it until spring/summer. Not with these expensive/hard to find door panels.

 

nope, that is my identical twin brother that lives in Prepyat Ukraine.

 

It is a vapor barrier.

I like to replace them with the packing that come around bumpers.

It is kinda like a very fine bubble wrap. It is a better insulation than the original plastic and it helps cut down on road noise.

Stop by your local body shop. they trow a bunch away every week

 

FordxFour: No doubt in Sacramento this coming Summer when it is over 100 degrees, the film would peel off without effort. But I already took my door panels off. So, maybe I will super heat the inside of the truck and if necessary use a heat gun to heat the metal not the plastic to see if I can peel it off. And I appreciate your warning about removing frozen or cold door panels because the plastic is brittle under such conditions. Thanks for the heads up!

 

I just drizzle a tiny bit of paint thinner on the top run and use a narrow (2"?) putty knife.
Let the top drape over as you work your way to the bottom.
This keeps it from making a mess.

The thinner keeps the mastic from sticking to the blade.
I imagine WD-40 would work, but don't know if it would dry enough to stick the film back on.

 

It's easier to remove when it's warm - the adhesive appears to be very similar to the butyl rubber that's used to attach windshields and windows on some vehicles. I always carefully peel the vapor barrier away from the door and try to avoid tearing. I reattach it to the door with Silicone II adhesive (not regular silicone - that releases acetic acid as part of the curing process which causes rust in bodywork; Silicone II is a GE product and is available at Home Depot, Lowes, etc, in the caulk aisle) and it works fine. Any rips I repair with duct tape, and I've been known to use a couple small tabs of clean-release duct tape to hold the vapor barrier in place while the adhesive cures.

 

How do you get it off the next time?

There's definitely no warm weather coming my way soon.
You are right. The operation is much easier when the mastic is warm.