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When you do find your springs, you will either have to modify the spring pack or use the 4" block from an F-350. The Exs come with a 2" block and you won't be happy with the stock B codes on an otherwise stock Ex.
Google "mod B ford springs" and do some reading. Many others have done the mod and are happy with the results, me included.
I was fortunate and found a set of V/B springs on craigslist and paid $170 for the set.
I have found a set of 2003 X codes and a set of 2005 F codes at a local salvage yard. Both out of F-250's Price would be about $200. From what I'm reading, if I mod these F springs in the same manor as the B springs (Aren't they the same?), I can use the stock spring block.
Now to locate U-bolts and new shocks. This is exciting!
The F codes should mod and perform just like B codes, sounds like a good deal too! I made up my new modded spring packs and then took the measurements to a local heavy truck spring shop, they made my new U bolts while I waited, 1/2 hour and $65 later I had all new U bolts!
The F codes should mod and perform just like B codes, sounds like a good deal too! I made up my new modded spring packs and then took the measurements to a local heavy truck spring shop, they made my new U bolts while I waited, 1/2 hour and $65 later I had all new U bolts!
You wouldn't happen to remember those measurements off the top of your head would you?
Super excited about the X code springs. I think they'll work perfectly with a custom bumper and wench. Rear Sway bar looks like it is going to get added to my list too.
I've changed plenty of springs/axles on trailers. Having a torch on hand is almost a requirement.
You wouldn't happen to remember those measurements off the top of your head would you?
Sorry, No. It's a good day if I remember my name.
Super excited about the X code springs. I think they'll work perfectly with a custom bumper and wench. Rear Sway bar looks like it is going to get added to my list too.
The X codes are for snow plow prepped trucks and F-550s so yes they are the perfect choice for heavier bumpers and whatever sized wench you prefer, they do usually like riding inside the cab though. The extra spring capacity also allows for the extra weight of a winch on the front bumper. Adding a rear sway bar is a very good addition for better handling and any towing chores.
I've changed plenty of springs/axles on trailers. Having a torch on hand is almost a requirement.
I did my entire spring swap without air, I have it but worked out of my other garage that doesn't for the springs. And the only torch I used was a little MAP gas job to soften the factory thread lock glue they used on the spring eye bolts.
When you do find your springs, you will either have to modify the spring pack or use the 4" block from an F-350. The Exs come with a 2" block and you won't be happy with the stock B codes on an otherwise stock Ex. Google "mod B ford springs" and do some reading. Many others have done the mod and are happy with the results, me included. I was fortunate and found a set of V/B springs on craigslist and paid $170 for the set.
So since I got the springs, blocks, overload blocks and over load springs from a 350 I don't have to mod the pack? Pros and cons to this?
So since I got the springs, blocks, overload blocks and over load springs from a 350 I don't have to mod the pack? Pros and cons to this?
Correct. If you take the block from the F-350 (which is 4") then you can mostly leave the springs alone. You still have to remove the block and single short leaf from the top of the pack (forgot what they call that spring) because it will hit the rear A/C lines in the Ex.
You will also need longer u-bolts but those from an F-350 may work. Don't re-use u-bolts, always buy new. I had mine custom made from a spring shop.
The con is that you're running a 4" block vs. a 2" block. Larger blocks have their drawbacks, such as increased wrap, which isn't a good thing. This is why cheap suspension lifts come with blocks, and quality lifts come with new springs. It's always better to add height via the springs vs. larger blocks.
I could have just used the 4" blocks - but I went with the mod B so I didn't have to.
Correct. If you take the block from the F-350 (which is 4") then you can mostly leave the springs alone. You still have to remove the block and single short leaf from the top of the pack (forgot what they call that spring) because it will hit the rear A/C lines in the Ex. You will also need longer u-bolts but those from an F-350 may work. Don't re-use u-bolts, always buy new. I had mine custom made from a spring shop. The con is that you're running a 4" block vs. a 2" block. Larger blocks have their drawbacks, such as increased wrap, which isn't a good thing. This is why cheap suspension lifts come with blocks, and quality lifts come with new springs. It's always better to add height via the springs vs. larger blocks. I could have just used the 4" blocks - but I went with the mod B so I didn't have to.
See this is why I need to talk things out I don't want the taller block so I will mod the Pack. Thank you
See this is why I need to talk things out I don't want the taller block so I will mod the Pack. Thank you
**Edit** Disregard, I did not read properly the first time and failed to see this was regarding the F350 springs. However, I'm leaving my original post for anybody searching in the future and is thinking of just adding lift via block on stock springs.
Original Post:
Don't forget that one of the reasons to go to B or C codes is to get rid of the stock springs all together. They're soft and spongy, and on the stock 2" for that matter. Imagine the leverage with a 4" block. Bleh. Even higher CoG on those mushy stock springs? Nooooo thank you.
Correct. If you take the block from the F-350 (which is 4") then you can mostly leave the springs alone. You still have to remove the block and single short leaf from the top of the pack (forgot what they call that spring) because it will hit the rear A/C lines in the Ex.
You will also need longer u-bolts but those from an F-350 may work. Don't re-use u-bolts, always buy new. I had mine custom made from a spring shop.
The con is that you're running a 4" block vs. a 2" block. Larger blocks have their drawbacks, such as increased wrap, which isn't a good thing. This is why cheap suspension lifts come with blocks, and quality lifts come with new springs. It's always better to add height via the springs vs. larger blocks.
I could have just used the 4" blocks - but I went with the mod B so I didn't have to.
Originally Posted by superdave02f552
See this is why I need to talk things out I don't want the taller block so I will mod the Pack. Thank you
Not disputing anything already said here, just offering up my observations from my swap/mods.
I had some world class scary rear steer and spring wrap on my stock springs while towing our old toyhauler at 9,500 lbs with 1460 lbs of tongue weight. I took my X/B swap up a notch or two as I wanted to run 35"s. I did the typical B mod and then added 2 sections of the cutdown traction bar to each side and went with the taller F-350 tapered blocks. Since the swap I haven't felt a any rear steer or any noticeable spring wrap. During this time I towed the old toyhauler thousands of miles and have upgrade to a new travel trailer that scales at 12k lbs and 1450 lbs of tongue weight, still no misbehaving springs even with the taller blocks. The B are less likely to wrap up it seems, I'm sure they do move some but it's so much less than the stockers with the 2" blocks.
Plenty of leverage here but no bad manners even when pulling heavy.
Not disputing anything already said here, just offering up my observations from my swap/mods. I had some world class scary rear steer and spring wrap on my stock springs while towing our old toyhauler at 9,500 lbs with 1460 lbs of tongue weight. I took my X/B swap up a notch or two as I wanted to run 35"s. I did the typical B mod and then added 2 sections of the cutdown traction bar to each side and went with the taller F-350 tapered blocks. Since the swap I haven't felt a any rear steer or any noticeable spring wrap. During this time I towed the old toyhauler thousands of miles and have upgrade to a new travel trailer that scales at 12k lbs and 1450 lbs of tongue weight, still no misbehaving springs even with the taller blocks. The B are less likely to wrap up it seems, I'm sure they do move some but it's so much less than the stockers with the 2" blocks. Plenty of leverage here but no bad manners even when pulling heavy.
I think this is good info for the thread. I'm trying to decide what I'm doing I'm in ow hurry it is -10 right now and my garage for doing this work is mot heated so plenty of time to pick my route
I think this is good info for the thread. I'm trying to decide what I'm doing I'm in ow hurry it is -10 right now and my garage for doing this work is mot heated so plenty of time to pick my route
I just towed a friend's crewcab Duramax on a 20' flatty and had zero symptoms of axle wrap on stock blocks and B-mods.