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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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Options for B code

Scored on a pair of V's a few weeks ago at local salvage yard. No B's to be found, they have searched none to be found within a reasonable distance. Freight is outrageous. Is there another option other than buying new, add a leaf, RAS, air bags, etc
The front will have the V's with a 2" shackle hanger kit and whatever it takes for rear to come up level
Biggest I'll probably tow is a 30' camper.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:14 PM
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Too bad you are on the other side of the country, I have a set of take-off B's that I did not use. Put V's in front, and RAS on rear, ended up with the handling and level ride I was looking for. No shackles though.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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Paraskr,

What do you think of the RAS? What kind of height did you end up with with the V's in front with no shackles and the RAS on the back?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:42 PM
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height

If memory serves, it was about 1.5" increase front and back, with new Bilsteins. I'll try to measure the "after" tomorrow when I am playing with the Spikes-Spiders.

I am very impressed with the RAS. I did spend 80 bucks for the 1 ton rear sway bar to replace my stock. With decent tires and the Red Head steering box, I am impressed with the handling, with or without a trailer.
 

Last edited by paraskr; Jan 2, 2015 at 09:47 PM. Reason: additional clarification
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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Thanks!

I just looked up the RAS. Seems nifty. I'm just wondering how well it holds up. I'm sure I've seen people talk about it some here on the forums, but it never stuck to me. I'll do a quick search now 0.0
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:19 PM
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I wonder if the RAS would be sufficient.. I don't want the safety chains dragging the highway when I hook to a trailer but I don't want it riding like a log truck either
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rscottc
I wonder if the RAS would be sufficient.. I don't want the safety chains dragging the highway when I hook to a trailer but I don't want it riding like a log truck either
It would be kind of crazy ((IMO) to try and tow your 30 foot trailer without a weight distribution hitch and sway controller -- $255 bucks delivered from etrailer. Look at my posted picture under the thread "a picture a day." It will level the ride, and put a proper amount of weight on the front axle.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...s/PS49903.html

If you look on some of the videos from RAS, you will see it helps with cornering and sway control, but has little increase in ride harshness. I concur.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:38 PM
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FYI: the 2005-2007 trucks have F codes that are B code equivalents

I have them on my X and love 'em. I did the modified B setup on the F codes.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:45 PM
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From: ramsey mn
Originally Posted by Tylus
FYI: the 2005-2007 trucks have F codes that are B code equivalents I have them on my X and love 'em. I did the modified B setup on the F codes.
I thought they went to a longer spring in 05? Or is that 08 I should be thinking?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 11:50 PM
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08+ rear leafs are longer
1999-2007 all have exact same rear leafs. Just different codes
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 01:25 AM
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From: ramsey mn
Originally Posted by Tylus
08+ rear leafs are longer 1999-2007 all have exact same rear leafs. Just different codes
copy that just wanted to be sure in my head
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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ride height with V's in front and RAS in rear

Drunken asked for my ride height with the V's in front, stock rear with RAS. I measured today, from the center of the axle to the fender -- front is 24 1/8" and the rear is 24 3/4". The RAS is adjusted to a bit more than half way. I like the stance unloaded with the rear just a bit higher.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by paraskr
Drunken asked for my ride height with the V's in front, stock rear with RAS. I measured today, from the center of the axle to the fender -- front is 24 1/8" and the rear is 24 3/4". The RAS is adjusted to a bit more than half way. I like the stance unloaded with the rear just a bit higher.

I just checked mine being stock as a comparison, and using the same method, center of axle to the fender.

Front: 23"
Rear: 24 1/4"

I have found a set of 2003 X codes and a set of 2005 F codes at a local salvage yard. Both out of F-250's Price would be about $200. From what I'm reading, if I mod these F springs in the same manor as the B springs (Aren't they the same?), I can use the stock spring block.

Now to locate U-bolts and new shocks. This is exciting!
 
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Drunken_Unicorn
I just checked mine being stock as a comparison, and using the same method, center of axle to the fender. Front: 23" Rear: 24 1/4" I have found a set of 2003 X codes and a set of 2005 F codes at a local salvage yard. Both out of F-250's Price would be about $200. From what I'm reading, if I mod these F springs in the same manor as the B springs (Aren't they the same?), I can use the stock spring block. Now to locate U-bolts and new shocks. This is exciting!
Do yourself a HUGE favor and start spraying all the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil now. Hit them up again every few days. I missed a few when I did mine and they were a massive PITA to remove.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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From: ramsey mn
Originally Posted by Krazee Matt
Do yourself a HUGE favor and start spraying all the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil now. Hit them up again every few days. I missed a few when I did mine and they were a massive PITA to remove.

Do you have air and a torch?
 
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