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Yup. My soldering skills suck. I replaced the three cylindrical capacitors but not the three pancake capacitors and had the same crank but no start symptom persist. But readily starts with SPOUT jumper removed. ("Spark Out" bypasses the PCM to fire the spark plugs.)
So I am going to go with "I didn't hack it so badly that I added symptoms."
But here's the deal, when you look at the component side of the circuit board you clearly see the capacitor and where its two legs are poked through and soldered to the board. But turn the circuit board over and it looks like the Milky Way - a million little solder pts. And that's where the desoldering is done. So confusing! that I actually desoldered one leg of an adjacent component!?!?!?! Which I then resoldered.
Hey guys: Rec'd the replacement computer last night. Installed it. Put the SPOUT jumper back in. Had the same crank no start condition again. With cycling the key it started. Could not get it started this morning - again crank no start.
Could it be something other than the computer? Again starts readily with the SPOUT jumper removed...
It was never the computer. It apparently was only a slightly oxidized SPOUT jumper plug and receptacle!
I put my old computer back in (with my hack job replacement of the four cylindrical capacitors) and it started right up with the SPOUT in and the old computer!
What the heck happened? Well I cleaned the SPOUT receptacle with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to get a good connection for the DVM. Could that have been it all along? Or did wiggling the SPOUT connector fix a short? Once it started with the SPOUT jumper in I really cleaned the receptacles well again with CRC electronic contact cleaner using micro Q-Tips and then hit it with a spray of DeoxIT Gold G5 and then cleaned the SPOUT jumper itself with CRC and removed some white powder oxidization and then hit it with G5.
Again, it is one of these moments:
Mechanics go to the component. Electricians look at the wiring.
For the detailed play by play including a DVM ohm and voltage testing of the SPOUT see:
I learned a lot about troubleshooting when I was young and poor. I couldn't afford parts, so it only made sense to determine if the part was, in fact, defective. Many times, not always, but often enough I was happy to find it was bad connections or needed percussive calibration, etc. Defects in ground or wiring can mimic other problems very convincingly. If you're not paying for the parts it's real easy to start throwing them around and call that "troubleshooting". It is after a fashion - but an expensive method.
You are correct on the resistor value. All resistors come with straight leads, so yes, you bend them around and put the leads in the holes. Don't cut them off yet, let them hang way down beyond the circuit board. Solder them in, and then cut them off. You can go bigger on the resistors with no problem, except room to put them in. I do not have one of those boards in front of me, but 1/4 watt should work. If it's too big, you can set the resistor at a 45 degree angle, or stand it up. Put the lower lead straight in and then curl the upper lead in a 180 degree turn and bring it down into the other hole. Some circuit boards mount the resistors this way from the factory, it's not a big deal.
I think I will measure the diameter of the resistor then and replace with a comparative one.
This is what I was able to discern with an online search:
1/8w = 1.8 mm dia. x 3 mm length
1/4w= 2.5 mm dia. x 6.5 mm length
1/2w= 3.2 mm dia. x 8.5 mm length
I think I will measure the diameter of the resistor then and replace with a comparative one.
This is what I was able to discern with an online search:
1/8w = 1.8 mm dia. x 3 mm length
1/4w= 2.5 mm dia. x 6.5 mm length
1/2w= 3.2 mm dia. x 8.5 mm length
That should work. The size of the resistor is directly related to it's power handling capacity.
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