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whats everyones opinion on replace just the clutch disk and not the pp and everything? first question i know will be why am i trying to be so cheap? well im only keeping this setup together long enough to save up my pennys for either a 4bt swap or a fresh 300 and 5 speed.so im thinking just shortcut it for now? o btw truck in question is one listed as "current" in sig.
Why are you replacing it? If it's slipping or anything I wouldnt risk it. the only way I'd replace just the disc is if I had the engine or trans out for another reason.
Why are you replacing it? If it's slipping or anything I wouldnt risk it. the only way I'd replace just the disc is if I had the engine or trans out for another reason.
its not slipping, just not disengaging all the way anymore and its quite hard to get into gear, my first thought was the slave system on it because my 94 had that issue but the slave seems to be in good order so im going with the clutch. unless theres something i may be overlooking?
My old master/slave setup seemed to be ok too. When I got my tranny rebuilt it was really hard to shift gears. The slave was not able to push the fork far enough. The push rod on the master was original and not adjustable. I put a whole new setup on with an adjustable rod and the problem is solved. I bet it's the hydraulic clutch getting old and sloppy.
its not slipping, just not disengaging all the way anymore and its quite hard to get into gear, my first thought was the slave system on it because my 94 had that issue but the slave seems to be in good order so im going with the clutch. unless theres something i may be overlooking?
I'd think a new, thicker disc would make that worse, sounds like a hydralic problem or cracked firewall. If you were to replace just the disc and still had the same problem, then what... pull it back apart and try the pressure plate?
Unless you clutch slave/master is leaking, your problem is probably worn fingers on the pressure plate.
Here is a test to see if the slave/master is bleeding off: put in low gear and hold the clutch in on a flat surface. Keep holding it for 5-10 minutes. If they are bleeding off, you will eventually start creeping forward.
Everytime I've had clutch hydraulics go out, you can't disengage the clutch at all.
I would definitely check for a crack firewall. My dad's 87 had that problem. I cut out a 3/16" plate to match the inside of the firewall (oversized to brace the firewall) and got longer bolts. Problem solved.
I agree with the above posters in regard to the cracked fire wall. It is a putzy/time consuming repair but totally do-able to brace the fire wall with a piece of sheet metal. I used 11 guage to brace the clutch master cylinder and the results are amazing! I had also swaped in an adjustable clutch rod master clyinder set-up from an 85. Seems the 86 switched to the non adjustable rod version which was not one of Ford's "Better Ideas"
Good Luck!
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