Happy New Year everybody!


Up front I am not a mechanic and have a question. I have asked at my NAPA store, and always get an answer - many times wrong and since they didn't know the answer but afraid to admit it and that usually start other problems since I knew no better.


First: I want to replace the old (spliced) Negative cable.
My old Negative battery cable has two #4 wires, one to the block and one to the solenoid. They don't make this and I wondered if the replacement with a #8 wire is the correct one and supposed to go to some lug in the solenoid? (Currently the #4 is under the mount for the solenoid).


Second: the bolt to the block is VERY tight and I am afraid to reef more to loosen it with my breaker bar. I think it may snap. Is there a trick to this or would a garage with pneumatics (torches?) be a better choice?

 

Double post?? How did that happen?
John

 

The negative battery cable to the block is how the truck would have come from the factory, but the other is not. (It appears, though, that your ground cable is bolted to the head, not the block - but I may be reading the picture incorrectly. Nothing wrong with it there, either.)
Nothing wrong with the cable to the fender. Often with these old trucks, grounding between body panels becomes a problem, and adding extra grounding wires can help prevent electrical gremlins.
There should be a grounding strap on the back of the engine running to the firewall to ground the engine to the cab.
It looks like whoever installed the extra ground to the fender felt the need to ensure there were good grounds.

As for the tight bolt, try heating the head boss around the bolt with a propane torch. Heating it lightly can expand the metal, allowing it to come out of the boss more easily.
Running the engine to operating temperature might work too.

Hope this helps.

John - Banjo -

 

Hey thanks for the reply Banjo John. The replaced 302 engine was done by previous owner. I can't see where there is a ground from the engine to the firewall at all. Where would the strap ground normally be attached in the rear of the engine.
Also, which bolt would the Neg. cable be attached to in the factory setup. Perhaps I could use the correct cable location and cut the existing cable. That would eliminate the possible breaking the current bolt location.
Then I could add the strap to the back that I seem to need.


If I bought the Negative cable with the Axillary #8 wire, could use that a ground to the fender, or is the #8 simply to small to be effective?


Scott

 

First of all, Scott, since the truck is not original, I wouldn't worry about exactly correct wiring.
By the way, I am assuming your truck had a 352 V8 originally. The exactly correct locations for attaching engine wiring would be different than I am describing for a 6 cylinder, but they would be similar.

The original was bolted to a threaded boss on the rear of the intake manifold. You can attach it to any bolt on the head, block or intake manifold. It doesn't need to be a big cable either; the original was just a braided uninsulated strap. (Stay away bolting wires to the head bolts, or to the exhaust manifolds, by the way.)

Normally, it would be bolted to near the front of the block, on the side, just above where the oil pan meets the block.
But, it is fine where it is. No need to move it.

That will work just fine. The only ground wire that needs to be that large is the one between the battery and the block. It needs to be larger because it handles the heavy current draw from the starter.

Hope this helps!

John - Banjo -

 

Thanks John again. It's hard to visualize something when the original has been removed. That helped a lot. Just don't want to add new electrical pathways.


Scott

 

This is a 1980's battery cable, there was nothing like this used originally.

Negative cable grounded to exhaust manifold on 1965/67 352 - 1968/76 360/390 - 1969/79 F100 302 & 1975/79 F150 302.

 

Couple area's I am not clear about; although, does not appear current configuration should present a problem. I am curious about what appears to be a ground strap located towards the upper part of the inner fender with 2 wires connected to it; cuuious what they connect to, and whether or not the truck has an 'Alt' gauge. In addition, appears to be a second ground strap running from the 'neg' side of batt. to start relay. If you need any additional input perhaps couple pix would help.

Posting couple pix of wiring diag. from 65 Ford wiring manual. Suggest purchasing the manual, few Ford part supplier's carry them, or purchase directly from the source; Jim Osborn Reproductions, Inc. for $7.

 

Dave, this are a perfect example of why this forum has always been here for me and others. Thank You
I'm not sure I understand the question, but fwiw the history of my truck is: the PO had "rewired" it not paying attention to colors etc. when the new engine was installed and I don't know what I have. I did change the Suzuki motorcycle ignition back to a correct one and identified the wires / connection he had cut off and tossed. Repaired most of the underdash wiring that had been run direct to the battery and now runs thru the ignition.
In the engine compartment, I recently placed looms around bundles of old wires, that were cracked- broken-cut and twisted spliced, to protect what I have today. I made proper splices replacing (new) where they really bad.
The truck runs well - as of today.
What I need is a new wiring harness but not sure I have the money or the ability.
Back to your question.
Are you talking about the junction block near the starter relay. There are: one wire on one side that goes to the starter relay; and two wires on the other side. One goes to the coil and the other (Now red) goes thru the firewall and hooks to the fuse box from the inside. I have not tried to identify this. see picture
Looking at the wiring diagram, this is new and really wrong. Looks like he is powering the fuse box here with this wire.
I don't know what to do at this point.

 

Scott, in the picture you initially posted, there is what appears to be a metal bracket/strap with 2 wires connected to it, just curious as to where these wires ran?? As long as the truck is running then I would not be overly concerned, may want to consider cleaning up the wiring once familiar with trucks current wiring format. In regards to wiring Harnesses, couple of options; after market, or reproduction. There are a few aftermarket kits, when the topic has come up in the past do not recall member's having any negative comments about the kits, advantage of the kit is ability to add more circuits. I went with reproduction wiring harnesses, same wire color codes and connectors, it was just a matter of unplugging the old harness and plug in the new. I only purchased the 'Engine, Tail and Headlight harness' which came to around $250-$275. If the dash harness is a mess I believe the company I purchased the harnesses from offers the entire kit for around $550-$600; if so, I was pleased with the quality. I may have a link to either website; repro, or entire kit if decide to go this route??