fuel seleCT or valve
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Thomaston
fuel seleCT or valve
Here is my question. On my 1990 250 both strainers in the tanks were in small pieces. The biggest piece was the metal screen. The 5/16th return line connector on the rear tank broke as I was taking it off. I pulled the lines up to the selector the were still flexible not brittle.The check valve was the second. While I have the fuel system open should I go ahead a replace the selector? The little bit I drove it when switching from front to rear the gauge did move. I am also going to do the injector returns, the fuel heater, filter check valve, and the olives. Another question should I use worm gear clamps as opposed to the spring clamp that comes in the kit?
Glad this forum is here found my problems as soon as they happened
Here is my project list
Replace dead glow plug controller
fluid filter change
replace worn /cracked suspension parts
wheels and tires
a little body work,
Glad this forum is here found my problems as soon as they happened
Here is my project list
Replace dead glow plug controller
fluid filter change
replace worn /cracked suspension parts
wheels and tires
a little body work,
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
I'd say that if it works clean it up and use it. From what I understand they are not available anymore, at least as a direct replacement. I've read a few post here where members got replacements they were able to plumb in to work, but they were not plug n play.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum!
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2014
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Likes: 9
From: Thomaston
I'd say that if it works clean it up and use it. From what I understand they are not available anymore, at least as a direct replacement. I've read a few post here where members got replacements they were able to plumb in to work, but they were not plug n play.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum!
http:// https://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php?carcode=1124378&parttype=6276
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,221
Likes: 17
Hopefully someone that's worked on these will chip in soon; I haven't had to so my knowledge here is second hand.
I want to say the issue was that the ones that claimed to be direct replacement in fact weren't. You might search around here to check or compare yours to the picture to see if the mounting, wiring, and plumbing all match.
I want to say the issue was that the ones that claimed to be direct replacement in fact weren't. You might search around here to check or compare yours to the picture to see if the mounting, wiring, and plumbing all match.
Last edited by Chevy_Eater; Dec 29, 2014 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Speeelling
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
Likes: 3
From: West Des Moines, IA
Yeah, none of those are the OEM style. You have to modify the fuel lines and wire in the plug yourself to make those work.
If you feel like it, you can take your original one apart by drilling out the 4 small rivets and inspect the switching mechanism. More often than not, they reason they "fail" is because a piece of the broken showerhead gets stuck in them. They're just a 2-position switch when you get down to the basics of them. Give it a good cleaning, and put it back together with 4 small machine screws w/ nuts. And when you plug it in, you should hear a small "click" of the motor switching positions. If you aren't sure that you heard it, unplug it again, switch tanks, and then plug it back in. You'll hear if it's working.
If you feel like it, you can take your original one apart by drilling out the 4 small rivets and inspect the switching mechanism. More often than not, they reason they "fail" is because a piece of the broken showerhead gets stuck in them. They're just a 2-position switch when you get down to the basics of them. Give it a good cleaning, and put it back together with 4 small machine screws w/ nuts. And when you plug it in, you should hear a small "click" of the motor switching positions. If you aren't sure that you heard it, unplug it again, switch tanks, and then plug it back in. You'll hear if it's working.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Thomaston
[QUOTE=lindstromjd;14948239]Yeah, none of those are the OEM style. You have to modify the fuel lines and wire in the plug yourself to make those work.
If you feel like it, you can take your original one apart by drilling out the 4 small rivets and inspect the switching mechanism. More often than not, they reason they "fail" is because a piece of the broken showerhead gets stuck in them. They're just a 2-position switch when you get down to the basics of them. Give it a good cleaning, and put it back together with 4 small machine screws w/ nuts. And when you plug it in, you should hear a small "click" of the motor switching positions. If you aren't sure that you heard it, unplug it again, switch tanks, and then plug back in
Thanks. Priority for today is to finish putting up the fence so the dog can't escape again , if I get done with that today I pull the valve and take it apart
If you feel like it, you can take your original one apart by drilling out the 4 small rivets and inspect the switching mechanism. More often than not, they reason they "fail" is because a piece of the broken showerhead gets stuck in them. They're just a 2-position switch when you get down to the basics of them. Give it a good cleaning, and put it back together with 4 small machine screws w/ nuts. And when you plug it in, you should hear a small "click" of the motor switching positions. If you aren't sure that you heard it, unplug it again, switch tanks, and then plug back in
Thanks. Priority for today is to finish putting up the fence so the dog can't escape again , if I get done with that today I pull the valve and take it apart
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: St. Francois Co. Missouri
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 594
Likes: 3
From: West Des Moines, IA
Depends on what you're talking about. I believe there might still be an OEM replacement, but it costs an obscene amount of money. Like $300+
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