Friends, I have an 86 Ford F150 4x4 with a 351 HO. The truck has duel tanks and a mechanical fuel pump. For about a week now I’ve noted a strong smell of fuel coming form the truck. Yesterday I noted leakage under the truck that prompted me to craw under it and find the fuel selector valve wet with fuel. I’m assuming the valve is bad and will probably have to change it out. I’ve got a crappy Haynes repair manual that doesn’t say squat regarding the the removal of this valve. My concern is removal of the lines, as there appear to be clips that secure the three blue lines to the valve. Not sure about there removal. I also have concerns about how much fuel will poor out from them as I individually remove them. I would appreciate any advice in their removal along with suggestions on where I might best purchase the replacement valve. Thanks, John

 

Mine was just attached by hose clamps...And the fuel will come out so just have something to catch it in. A picture might help with the line removal

 

You could save a few bucks with a after market valve, but its a major project.
The after market valve will not hookup to the nylon lines that you have, and
the wiring pigtail will also need replaced. Im gussing you would have to pull
the tanks to connect the new lines aswell.

AutoZone part #FSV1 $48.99 (3 port valve)
AutoZone part #FSV2 $59.99 (6 port valve)
Auto Zone part #FV5C ($17) also known as (Wells 213) - the wire connector (pigtail)

You can also get the whole kit online for about the same price or advance auto has
the kit for just under $100.

I dont know about the 3 port valve, but the 6 port valve for my 85 with the hot fuel
return line from Ford runs about $190, so I decided to go with the after market. In
my case I didnt need to drop the tanks to do this and wanted to run new lines anyways.


Get the part from Ford and its plug and play 15 min fix.


and.. to remove the lines just pull the clips off with a flat head screw driver and
the lines pull right off. It may syphon all the fuel out of the tanks if you dont plug
them or raise them higher then the tanks.

 

If you have the 3 port valve, I believe you can still get them from places like Jeff's Bronco graveyard and others like them. As stated, the universal aftermarket valves will not hook direct, you have to take the end fittings off and put rubber line on to connect.

 

On my truck, 1986, dual tank, mechanical engine drive fuel pump, carb.

I have a 3 port, 2 wire connector, with blue plastic fuel lines. The 3 ports are located, top and one on each side of the valve. On other older Ford trucks the fuel selectors I have seen have (single wire) 2 ports on one side for the tank inputs and one port on the other side for the outlet to the fuel pump.

I have not seen any of the stock Ford style 3 port valves that use the plastic lines for sale at any parts outlet, only generic style valves. I have been looking for a spare fuel selector that matches my truck at the junkyard for awhile so I have a spare on hand to swap out if mine fails but have not found one yet that looks worth taking home. I will probably have to convert to a generic style if mine quits working.

The 2 wires are hot and ground. The valve is powered only when the front tank is selected and spring loaded to the rear tank. The valve will be warm to the touch when energized. I have been using my back tank as my normal use tank to get more life out of the selector valve.

You can buy plastic to rubber fuel line connectors at the parts store to convert the 2 tank inputs and then run rubber hose from the selector to the fuel pump.

The clips for the plastic lines might break when you remove them so get some spare new clips if you are staying with the plastic stuff.

Let me know if you find a source for a new 3 port fuel selector valve that is for the plastic lines style of connections.

Jim

 

Jim, it sounds like your configuration is the same as mine....3-port fuel valve. As was mentioned above by Swatter, the after-market units are not bolt in and to make them so requires a lot of work. I won't go there.

I called the local Ford dealer this morning and they have the unit, part# E5TZ9189A, for $108.10. Some searching on the net lead me to the outfit I've linked below. From them it was $78 plus shipping. This was a no brainer for me.

To those of you who posted to my questions, especially you Swatter, I thank you.

https://www.tituswillfordparts.com/

 

I bought the very part (6 Port) and I cant figure out what the old ford wires all are...2 yellow, then a blue then a brown , then a orange..I have had intermittant running but it never lasts....I even replaced the fuel shut off relay but not the starter relay.......I am now on 12 hrs solid working on this thing! still a no goer.....

 

I did the aftermarket fuel select conversion. See writup in my sig below for info wiring diagrams etc.

 

No dealer is going to lose money by selling a part for waaay less than their actual net cost. So where/how did you come up with this $78.00 figure?

Type the E5TZ-9189-A part number into Titus Will Fords website (like I did) and you'll see they are selling it for $143.59 .. not $78.00 / This is more money than both the FTE sponsors are selling it for.

E5TZ-9189-A .. 3 port Fuel Tank Selector Valve Assy / Marked: E57B-9F271-AA / Available from Ford.

Dealer net cost is $118.67!!

MSRP $197.78 / FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $130.74 / FTE sponsor Horizonpartsguy.com price: $142.40.

Tousley Ford = White Bear Lake MN / Horizonpartsguy.com (formerly partsguyed.com) = Horizon Truck Center in Seattle (Tukwila) WA // Titus Will Ford (not an FTE sponsor) is located in Tacoma WA
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E5TZ-9189-B .. 6 port Fuel Tank Selector Valve Assy / Marked: E57B-9F271-BA or E67B-9F271-AA / Available from Ford

Dealer net cost is: $191.91.

MSRP: $319.85 / FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $211.10 // FTE sponsor Horizonpartsguy.com price: $230.29.

The dealer net cost prices were taken from the FoMoCo Dealer Parts Locator System. I usually only list dealer net cost prices when parts are obsolete, but find it necessary in this case.

At one time Ford raised the prices four times a year. But in today's world, the prices may change every week.

And btw: Both these valves have been troublesome TERDS since day one. The second part number I typed here on FTE the day after I signed on, was E5TZ-9189-B when someone asked about it.

I didn't have the 1980/89 truck parts catalog at that time, but didn't need it, as I typed the part number from memory, because I've been aware since day one!

 

Is there a chance you can run using only one tank? If so, I would go to the parts store and get a fuel line splice kit, take the valve out, and bypass it. That's what I did.

 

Hi Gary,

I had planned to do this as well, because I have the electrical 6-port valve and I'm currently replacing the rear tank pump on my '85 EFI F-150. I have a couple of questions for you.

1) How did you splice the lines from the single tank's pump to the filter? Mine are nylon and have the locking Ford connectors. I'm not beyond cutting them, but I wonder how I could use a barbed fitting with those lines (have read about heat gunning them, etc.)?

2) Do any wiring modifications need to be made? I'm not sure if the tank selector plays a role in allowing current to the pump that is selected. My selector is model E67B-9F271 AA.

 

Beater - Are you in OK or just saying that you are OK? If in, where?

As for the connections, I did the bypass of the nylon lines using the splice kit but didn't install a filter on that one. (Actually, it was Ray1986F150's truck we did that on.) On Dad's truck, which uses the earlier rubber hoses I bypassed the valve with hose and put the filter in the rubber hose just ahead of the fuel pump.

But, no wiring changes are needed, although if someone flips the switch to the other tank the truck won't run. The switch on yours choses which fuel pump to run and which sending unit to connect to the gauge. On mine it just chooses the sending unit since I don't have an electric pump.

Make sense?

 

Thanks for the info! I'm in the Owasso area. So when you say you bypassed the lines on Ray's truck, did you run new rubber lines from the pump to the filter? I guess that would be feasible since I have everything apart right now.

There's a selector valve on eBay for $80 that I'm tempted to grab, but I already have too much invested in this beater. It was intended to be a junkyard runner, but has definitely got more time and money invested in it than it's worth!

 

Go to the parts store and get a fuel line splicing kit for the kind of line you have. We got the one at O'Reilly's here in Skiatook, but I think they all have them. Get one for the supply line and one for the vent line. Those splice kits will allow you to bypass the valve.

Owasso! We have lots of guys in the area, as Ray is in Collinsville but almost Owasso, Bruno is in BA, etc.

 

If you still have the ends on the lines that hook up to the port switch and are retained by clips, you can just use a small 3" or so length of 3/8" steel line, as well as another 5/16" line for the other, and use a cable tie through the holes where the clips pass through. I have done this a few times and works well. The o-rings inside the hose ends will seal to the pipes.