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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

302 hit the ground

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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:50 AM
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302 hit the ground





So a friend of mine is helping me do some things I know little about. I bought a rebuilt 302 and had it home for thirty minutes. Used the wrong size bolts on the engine stand and........CRASH. Now I have to keep my friend away from sharp objects for at least 72 hours. The tapped bolt hole {below the locating pin } sheared at an angle leaving enough threads to still bolt to the engine stand. My friend said it will be fine. I know he would not deceive me but I wonder if he's just too hopeful. What do you guys think? I would rather hear it now!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:09 AM
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IMHO, it won't matter. But me being me, just to make me feel better and not that it would matter, I'd put a couple dobs of JB weld on it and stick it back on, being careful not to get any in the threads.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:18 AM
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I'd put a longer bolt in and put a nut on the back side, after flattenning the back side with light grinding.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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The cast iron can be successfully TIG welded by a certified welder with experience. My friend, a major pro racing engine builder does it all the time, puts blocks back together after a rod goes thru the side. I'd suggest contacting the largest racing engine builder within driving distance.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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It probably wouldn't matter, but I would do like Ross suggested. Good luck & Merry Christmas.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I'd put a longer bolt in and put a nut on the back side, after flattenning the back side with light grinding.
That really is a good idea.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc
That really is a good idea.
Let's just say I have (ahem) personal experience dealing with a similar situation...
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I'd put a longer bolt in and put a nut on the back side, after flattenning the back side with light grinding.
I'm with Ross also on this one.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 01:29 PM
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Hey everyone, thanks for the quick responses. I woke up this morning with a dark cloud over my head. Feeling much more optimistic now. You guys saved Christmas! Assuming that it is a mere flesh wound and the area around it is sound, I have a second question. I am going with an auto transmission. Will those mating surfaces be dry or will I have to worry about fluid leaks?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by filthy6
Hey everyone, thanks for the quick responses. I woke up this morning with a dark cloud over my head. Feeling much more optimistic now. You guys saved Christmas! Assuming that it is a mere flesh wound and the area around it is sound, I have a second question. I am going with an auto transmission. Will those mating surfaces be dry or will I have to worry about fluid leaks?
Your auto trans is completely sealed unto itself (or is supposed to be barring any seal leaks) so there's no worry about that.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
The cast iron can be successfully TIG welded by a certified welder with experience. My friend, a major pro racing engine builder does it all the time, puts blocks back together after a rod goes thru the side. I'd suggest contacting the largest racing engine builder within driving distance.


This is the right way to do it, I don't think it will need to b an engine guy though. Most of my local AG guys are better at welding cast simply because they do it on tractor cases A LOT. I would weld it, re-drill and tap it, if it were mine. Most local AG machinist won't charge you an arm and a leg either.
 
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