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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:13 AM
  #16  
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[QUOTE=19711969;14932057]
Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Once ya figure out the cost then factor in another 20 percent for those "intangibles". [/QUOTE
Depressing!!!
Not depressing,just human life. Intangibles is a good word for oil,filters,anti-freeze,hoses,paint,plasti-gauge,rags,spray cleaner,RTV,"while I'm here's","might as well's","didn't know it needed this",ETC.,ETC. Ya know what we mean?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by slpcth
To do a proper rebuild you will have to send in the block and connecting rods/pistons also. The block will need the cylinders honed at a minimum, possibly bored oversize. Also, cam bearings and core plugs replaced, hot tanking and the mains aligned bored if there is any crankshaft damage. The connecting rods should be reconditioned and pistons replaced if the block is bored oversize. The crankshaft should be polished or ground undersize depending on condition. All covers (valve cover, oil pan, timing cover, etc.) should be dropped off and hot tanked for easier cleaning.

As mentioned earlier, the engine should be taken apart and brought to a machine shop for inspection before parts are ordered. A reputable machine shop can also set you up with a good overhaul kit and many times for a decent package price with the machine work. And with the machine shop supplying the parts they can custom fit the each piston to the cylinder for perfect cylinder wall to piston clearance.
Thanks!! sounds like I need to find a machine shop.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 06:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
I just read the part that it locked up. There's a pretty good chance that block and crank are junk. Of course he was probably driving along normal and it just happened, right? I raised 7 boys.
Haha yeah drives like A little old lady.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #19  
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[QUOTE=JEFFFAFA;14933642]
Originally Posted by 19711969
Not depressing,just human life. Intangibles is a good word for oil,filters,anti-freeze,hoses,paint,plasti-gauge,rags,spray cleaner,RTV,"while I'm here's","might as well's","didn't know it needed this",ETC.,ETC. Ya know what we mean?
Sounds like the bleeding may never stop. At least it's a hobby and not a necessity.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 07:14 PM
  #20  
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Sorry 'bout that.
The first step is to pull the head and count the pistons. There is no cheap way out of your situation with a lock-up.
I would suggest a short block from a reputable source and a local valve job from a machine shop. You may have to eat the core charge if a rod let go and tore up the bottom end and block.
Everything above is on target except Hio's 20%. Let's make that 70%.
Make your son sweat on the pull and replace. Explain to him that inline 300s are not meant to turn 6000 rpm.

I hope all of you who read this have a peaceful holiday.

Semper Fi
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #21  
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With no regard for what the machine shop says, here is what I would refer to as a "Master Rebuild".... off the top of my head:

Shortblock:

Pistons
Piston rings
Piston pins & locks
Rod bearings
Main bearings
Cam bearings
Camshaft
Oil pump n pick up
Oil pump drive
Water pump
Timing chain set
Freeze/core plugs
Full engine gasket set

Heads:
Valves
Valve seats
Valve guides
Valve keepers
Valve springs
Push rods

Machine work:
Hot tank
Install cam bearings
Cylinder boring with torque plate
Line bore
Decking (block and/or heads)
Resize rods (the big ends)
Install pistons on rods
Chamfering oiling ports on the mains
Three-angle valve job
New valve guides
Install hardened valve seats
Balancing the reciprocating assembly

Before turning in the block and heads for work, you can do some work yourself like gasket matching the heads, intake and even the exhaust manifold(s). Second is to smooth out the oil drainback holes so oil returns to the pan that much faster. A $35 set of emory rolls and buffs from Summit goes a long way. Another worthwhile (to me) upgrade is to spec ARP fasteners throughout the engine.

Consumables/Supplies:
RTV - Black, high temp red
Teflon thread sealant
Loctite, red and blue
ARP fastener lube
Engine assembly lube with molybdenum
Gascacinch
Engine paints
Thermostat
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Oil filter
Engine oil (break-in and then Shell Rotella T 15w-40)
Fuel filter
Belts
Coolant
Hoses
Hose clamps

..... what am I missing?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 08:54 PM
  #22  
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cap, rotor, points and condensor, carb soak and rebuild, fuel pump...
 
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 09:28 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
I just read the part that it locked up. There's a pretty good chance that block and crank are junk. Of course he was probably driving along normal and it just happened, right? I raised 7 boys.
I'm still pretty young myself, and sometimes that does happen. I drive my dads truck like a damn grandma going to church. However, in MY truck, I drive like an Andretti!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 01:29 PM
  #24  
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I'm wanting to put power steering in it and a front end out of a 73 with power brakes also.




 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 01:49 PM
  #25  
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Nice truck. Note, the clutch and brake pedals take the same pedal pad still available from Ford. Part number B7A2457A.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 06:58 PM
  #26  
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Oh the memories of "refreshing" and engine. I learned a long time ago from an old timer. If you want to save money buy a new one. If you want to enjoy having a nice old truck enjoy the work and throw away the receipts.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:47 PM
  #27  
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The last 300 I built got bored to .080" oversize and had .030" oversize 360 pistons stuffed in it. It had no issues with overheating even in the high desert and have great performance on regular 87 octane gas. I had planned on doing .050 over and using stock 360 pistons, but the block was too worn.
The engine will need to be opened up before you spend a penny on parts. You won't know what you need or what is salvageable until you look.

Sent from my Brigadier using IB AutoGroup
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Nice truck. Note, the clutch and brake pedals take the same pedal pad still available from Ford. Part number B7A2457A.
Haha I still have the one that came off just haven't got around to putting it back on. Very observant.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1loco
Oh the memories of "refreshing" and engine. I learned a long time ago from an old timer. If you want to save money buy a new one. If you want to enjoy having a nice old truck enjoy the work and throw away the receipts.
Great advice. My dad who passed earlier this year always said you learn a lot more with your mouth shut and your ears open...especially in the presence of the white headed guys.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Ford_Six
The last 300 I built got bored to .080" oversize and had .030" oversize 360 pistons stuffed in it. It had no issues with overheating even in the high desert and have great performance on regular 87 octane gas. I had planned on doing .050 over and using stock 360 pistons, but the block was too worn.
The engine will need to be opened up before you spend a penny on parts. You won't know what you need or what is salvageable until you look.

Sent from my Brigadier using IB AutoGroup
Found out today it didn't drop a piston. Got the head off but the engine is locked up tight. It will probably be a few days before i get to pull the engine. Any guesses why it's locked up before I get into it?
 
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