Steve, This is a very smart thing for you to say!!!

Keep it up and don't let us old farts dog you into not asking questions.

Quick question...are you working on a F150 or other? And what engine?

The diesel motor mounts rarely go bad.

We've all been in a vehicle that rocked back and forth as the mega cammed engine idled nervously and haphazardly. Or the whole vehicle shook as the driver gunned the throttle.

But all that twisting to and fro is not good for a stock or even streetable horsepowered engine, transmission and vehicle.

And do them all the same. Stock engine mounts means stock transmission mounts. Poly engine mounts, poly trans mounts. Most poly mounts are sold in kits like this already.

 

It's a 1987 f150 and the motor that's going in it is a 1983 351 windsor. Ive been reading on this and lots of people say they love the solid mounts and others say they hate them and they cause to much noise and I think that if you use solid motor mounts and rubber tranny mounts it allows the chassis and everything to flex like it's supposed to but I don't really know for sure about all this.

I like when the whole vehicle shakes at idle and read this is what solid motor mounts may do and some said they can feel a better transfer of power when they hammer the throttle. This is what I want. I want to be able to feel all 351 cubic inches of the motor but I also don't wanna hear the vibration in the cab. Some say the vibration isn't to bad and I don't know how it would be in my cab since it seems to be insulated pretty good.

I know for sure that i wont be using the stock rubber mounts and it's in the air whether to get solid or poly mounts. Just keep reading I guess. But I'd like to at least try the solids so I can pretty much live and learn and if I like them I'll know and if not I won't have to keep wondering

 

When you hit the gas the motor tries to twist out of the mounts and it wants to rip the drivers side apart. So the solid mount prevents that. The passenger mount gets compressed, so the solid mount is less critical.

If you're going to manual shift the trans then the kickdown isn't a big deal.

 

You better plan on getting a different trans too then, because that is run by computer.

or better yet. Don't fix what aint broke

 

The trans is not run by computer... it's an 83 c6

 

This "new" EFI you speak of ditching is 30 year-old technology at this point in time . It's really not that complicated when you take a closer look, and is downright elementary compared to the electronics used in today's vehicles.

 

Ya but I also don't have the tools to read codes and stuff with

 

i like carbs also, nothing beats hearing them 4 barrels open up! vooooommmmm!!!!! efi makes the vehicles seem a little more lame. although i do like mechaninal alchol injection, they are more like a on off switch in the dragsters.

 

Id rather work on a carbed motor anyways. If mechanical fuel injection wasn't so expensive to setup I'd be running that

 

I think a lot of people in here are forgetting they were 15 once too, this forum is here to HELP people. Keep up the work Steve, we look forward too seeing your end result.

 

Thanks I will

 

I'm not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn. You don't need a code reader for an '87 computer. The pre-OBD1 systems (EEC-IV is what I think your truck would have) will flash the codes on the check engine light if you jump the right connector to ground. It's a simple process that you can easily find in a search or by asking here.

And even if you had a new enough old truck that had the OBD2 system, you can get a reader for under $50. Or I've heard you can get an app for a smart phone that can read OBD2 codes. So either way, not having a code reader isn't a good reason to ditch EFI.

And again, not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn, EFI systems will almost always give better fuel mileage and better driveability than a carb. They CAN be harder to get power out of in a significantly modified engine, but only because there are a few more things to change (fuel pumps and injectors), and apparently some of the older systems can get a little confused when you make too many changes (no experience here myself, just what I've read). But even there it's not that hard to get EFI to work better than a carb, even for high power applications.

The only downside that I see personally to EFI is that there are a lot of things that can go wrong that can make it not work well, mostly electrical connections. But the thing about that is it's still pretty rare that any of those things actually cause any problems, so EFI systems overall probably are still more reliable than carbs (although carbs are pretty reliable too).

 

Well that sucks not having OverDrive

 

Honestly Id rather work on a carb. I enjoy that more than messing with wires to get the truck to run right. Whats the point of working on your truck if you hate it? I'm making it so I love it more... I'll have to look for that app cause its gonna be a while till I finish that other motor since I don't have enough money to finish it right now and most of my money comes from doing hay in the summer. So the efi will be in it for a while

 

Ya kinda....