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I figured that as I have used this forum for some time now and not really given back, that I would post the build for my senior project. My project is rebuilding the 390 in my 1977 F-250 along with fixing all of the problems that the truck has accumulated over the years.
The truck is a 1977 F-250 that I bought about 6 months back. At some point in its life it had the original 351 pulled and had a (to my knowledge ) a 390FE shoved in. It's got a 4 speed standard trans hooked to a NP205 transfer case and a D60 rear with 4:10 gears
This project of mine hopefully should only take a month or two so I will post pictures as things develop hope you enjoy.
Nice truck! Just don't get discouraged when you run over on time. It'll happen. It always does. Just keep after it and you'll be cruising again in no time. Also be aware that it's 3 times the cost to build an FE than it is to build a small block.
Now that I'm done popping your balloon, I'll tell you there's nothing like the sound of a healthy FE and you have a gorgeous truck to put it in. Keep us posted on the progress.
Had to get it towed back to my house after spending a few hours trying to do a quick header change before the rebuild. But after breaking off too many bolts in the head, I had to call it a day. The previous owner installed some terrible headers and welded the collectors together to fit.
This is what they look like after I cut hem off In an attempt to remove them
That's my biggest peeve about FE's. Those damn header flange bolts love to seize. When you replace those terrible headers be sure to use copious amounts of anti seize on those bolts when you go back together with a torque wrench.
The worst part was that the bottom bolts came out fine. It's as if they started out putting anti-seize on the bolts than just said **** it it takes too long and just slammed them in. I was only able to pull out 2 top bolts and all the bottom bolts all the rest broke off.
I've noticed that the driver door never shut as smoothly as the passenger door and after further inspection I saw that the driver door had a diffrent warranty plate. So I orderd a marti report along with a new warranty plate to make it look original
I've noticed that the driver door never shut as smoothly as the passenger door and after further inspection I saw that the driver door had a diffrent warranty plate. So I orderd a marti report along with a new warranty plate to make it look original
I'm hoping you ordered the report and tag for the F26 vin number. That F25 vin is for a 2 wheel drive.
Also since your door tag is wrong make sure you check the vin on the passenger top frame rail, between the cab mount and radiator mount against your title. It is usually closer to the cab mount.
The worst part was that the bottom bolts came out fine. It's as if they started out putting anti-seize on the bolts than just said **** it it takes too long and just slammed them in. I was only able to pull out 2 top bolts and all the bottom bolts all the rest broke off.
That is typical FE. The bottom ones probably never had anti seize. The issue with the FE heads is how thin those top exhaust manifold bolt tabs are. The bottom ones are one with the head. The tops being basically a tab that sticks up, gets hotter then hell cooking the bolts and causing a breeding ground for rust.
Pretty much every FE I have taken the manifolds off of had broken at least one of those bolts. Studs and anti seize if possible is the way to go. After using the anti seize you usually wont have that issue again. Another good thing to do would be to chase the threads of all those bolt holes before you go back together.
I'm hoping you ordered the report and tag for the F26 vin number. That F25 vin is for a 2 wheel drive.
Also since your door tag is wrong make sure you check the vin on the passenger top frame rail, between the cab mount and radiator mount against your title. It is usually closer to the cab mount.
I checked the frame rail before ordering and the vin matches the one on the cab
It has been a while since I last posted and lot has changed. I have decided against rebuilding the motor in my truck and instead buying a 390 long block from a company a couple hours away from my house. The best part about it is that they have a long blocks ready to ship overnight for dirt cheap.
This is how the motor came
Right now the motor is hanging on an engine crane because the mounts on my engine stand are not wide enough to fit the back of the motor so I am fabricating some new ones.
Yesterday my dad and I pulled the entire front clip off of the truck and it is now sitting waiting for the old motor to be pulled out. Which if all goes to plan will be tomorrow morning before work.
The wooden structure underneath the truck is there to both raise the engine crane up high enough that the motor can be removed easily and to level it out.
The motor is coming out today. Got the Engine crane hooked up to the motor and ready to pull, but I ran out of time and had to get to work so my dad is going to finish pulling the motor
