Wheel bearings
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
<INPUT id=gwProxy type=hidden><!--Session data--><INPUT id=jsProxy onclick=jsCall(); type=hidden>

Parts list 62-71 are all you need to really worry about. A 76mm socket is very useful. Can be found at Autozone and other parts stores.
I am not sure which bearing you are referring to when it comes to what you are talking about going on. I will try to summerize tear down and install....
1) Remove the locking hub with a star socket.
2) Unlock the locking ring that sits just inside the lip of the hub (use 2 flathead screwdrivers, thats easiest, by prying it out a little at a time). Once the ring comes out, part "73" can be pulled out.
3) With the 76mm Hub Socket, you will unscrew the first tof two hub nuts off of the spindle.
4) The spacer between the hub nuts slides off next.
5) Again, using the hub socket, unscrew the last hub nut off of the spindle.
6) Unbolt the two large brake caliper bracket bolts behind the caliper going into the spindle assembly. Hang the brake caliper with a peice of wire so that you dont apply pressure to the brake line.
7) Slide the hub off of the spindle.
The outer wheel bearing (the one behind the hub nuts) should fall out or can be pulled out with no problems. Once the Outer bearing is removed, you can address getting the Inner Bearing out. There are two ways to do this. A person can either place the hub on a flat surface, face down, and pry the inner hub seal off with a screwdriver, then removing the bearing, or.. If you want to save you seal to re-use it (if its not destroyed and you are limitted on parts availablity)..
Place the hub face up, and onto to 2 blocks of wood, or other surfaces, in which the back of the hub where the seal is, rests freely in the air while the hub is being supported. Take a long extension or other flat surface extension, run it into the hub and rest the flat surface of the extension on the Inner wheel bearing, then with a hammer, begin tapping the wheel bearing out the backside of hub a little at a time as you rotate around the hub. By doing this, the Inner Wheel bearing pushes against the hub seal, and forcing it out without warping it.
You have the wheel bearings out, time to get to the races. You will have two races, the Inner Race and Outer Race, same as the wheel bearings.
If you place the hub face down on a flat surface, you can use your socket extension and a hammer to get it out. If you have the availability of a press, this would be a lot less time consuming. If not, by placing the extension back into the hub, find the Outer Race surface (races are cone shaped) with the tip of the extension. Using the hammer, begin tapping with a good amount of energy, the extension. You will have to trace the race with the extension as you go. Strike one side, move the extension to the opposite side of the race, strike that side, then move to a new area. You need to essentially wiggle the race out.
The Inner Race will come out in the same process. For some reason, maybe because of diameter, the Inner Race comes out alot easier. Be patient with the Outer race... it doesnt come out fast!
Installing the Races:
Just as you tapped the old ones out, you will need to tap the new ones in. Use more caution when tapping the in, as to not bend the surface ring of the race. You will be pushing them back in with the extension and hammer, just as you did removing them.
TIP: Parts.. You can use races from a D-50 on a D-60, and vise versa. This also goes for wheel bearings. If you need parts numbers, let me know!








