E4OD down? or electrical?
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
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E4OD down? or electrical?
Hey all, I currently have a 1995 f250 hd with an e40d. had the truck for just under a year. maintained well and has run great. However, the trans has started shifting REALLY hard.... it acts like it doesn't want to shift at all until about 2500+ rpms and then slams into the next gear unless I pump the pedal right before a shift point. Trans just on its way out or is there possibly an electrical problem these trucks tend to have? No O/d flashing. Also I am unfortunately unaware of the trucks history or trans history of work but the truck does have 253,xxx miles. thanks for any info on how these trans actually choose their shift points or any diag help.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
Definitely check for codes, as Mark suggested. I've had similar issues with, and without, the OD light flashing. Most times it has been a bad or dirty Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the rear differential.
I've had some luck removing the VSS, wiping off the "crud" and reinstalling. DO NOT USE ANY CLEANERS, just wipe it off with a shop rag or paper towel. I ohms tested my old one and it returned a reading of 1985 ohms. I tested the new one, too, even though it was the wrong part. The new one tested at 480 ohms.
If your VSS is more than a few years old, or you're not sure how old it is, replacing it is cheap insurance. The part is less than $30, at least it is in my area. I have another one on order now, and am waiting for it to arrive. I received the wrong one. I have an electric odometer, and the VSS was for use with a mechanical odometer. I wasn't aware there was a difference between the VSS models available, but once I opened the box, I could tell right away it wasn't the correct part for my truck.
I've had some luck removing the VSS, wiping off the "crud" and reinstalling. DO NOT USE ANY CLEANERS, just wipe it off with a shop rag or paper towel. I ohms tested my old one and it returned a reading of 1985 ohms. I tested the new one, too, even though it was the wrong part. The new one tested at 480 ohms.
If your VSS is more than a few years old, or you're not sure how old it is, replacing it is cheap insurance. The part is less than $30, at least it is in my area. I have another one on order now, and am waiting for it to arrive. I received the wrong one. I have an electric odometer, and the VSS was for use with a mechanical odometer. I wasn't aware there was a difference between the VSS models available, but once I opened the box, I could tell right away it wasn't the correct part for my truck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 4
From: Southern AZ
It could also be valves in the valve body sticking or a weak spring (I think). You can get a valve body rebuild kit from a tranny parts house that has all the springs in it to rebuild the valve body and it usually updates it too.
Shouldn't be very expensive and is worth a try.
Richard
Shouldn't be very expensive and is worth a try.
Richard
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
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Update: tried cleaning vss no better. No codes for trans. Ordered a Transgo valve body kit should be here this week.. We will see if it fixes anything. Confidence is pretty low at this point
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2008
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Subd even tho i have a zf... Some day when im an ol duffer i may have to run the 2 pedal set up...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
If cleaning the VSS didn't fix the problem, I'd replace it. You might want to check your wiring and connector, too.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 326
Likes: 15
From: near charlotte nc
my truck did that for the previous owner turned out to be the barometric press sensor under the dash comp was thinking it was under heavy boost at all times so was upping line press to try and protect the trans
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Junior User
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Where would this barometric sensor be located? Little up date I installed the shift kit which seem to improve it but still had very rough shifts. Then had a CEL show up tried to read codes got a no communication from the scanner, but i figured this was because my scanner didn't speak powerstroke. Started the truck up drove 20 ft it died and wouldn't start back seemed like it wasn't getting fuel ! Finally got it to start and limp it home. did some digging and found the truck has had a cab swap done (poorly swapped I might add!) Any who decided I was going to double check their work and began with tearing out the dash and checking the interior harness. I found several poorly connected connectors and a set of very loose grounds! Also found four wires coming off the main harness cut and zip tied up?? No idea what they go to as I didn't see any other connectors missing. Obviously going to replace the harness and make sure all connectors are good! but I'm curious as to where that baro pressure sensor is located now?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
The baro is up above your right knee, so I've been told. I could never find mine though.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Its a little black box attached to the column, looks like a relay. and from the trucks I have seen its been on the left
If you have anyone you know with a 7.3 ask if you could swap it out and try it rather than buy another one bc they are kinda pricey
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