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Just fish around for the dropped tool----that set is anodized aluminum so should catch light shined in there.
A 2 or 3 foot long flexible grabber tool might come in handy....of course a magnetic pick-up tool wont work on aluminum unless it has ferrous metal in the jaws or hinge pins...probably not even then.
A 2 or 3 foot long flexible grabber tool might come in handy....of course a magnetic pick-up tool wont work on aluminum unless it has ferrous metal in the jaws or hinge pins...probably not even then.
That might work too----can't have enough "retrieval" tools huh?
I was replacing the #4 COP yesterday, using the typical collection of 1/4" drive extensions etc, dropping a few over the course of the repair. Since I was working inside naturally they'd fall to the driveway, dead smack in the middle so I had to get out with an extendable magnet to grab 'em back up again.
Still haven't fixed the blend door and now the CEL comes on. P0171 and P0174
I'm gonna have to come for a visit and just fix all for you, right?
Those codes are Lean Bank 1 & Lean Bank 2 which almost always points to the PCV tube elbow at the back lower of the throttle body. Remove the dog house, dig through the insulation wrapped around that tubing and you should see the elbow has split apart of perhaps fallen off its inlet.
Almost any parts store will have those, Dorman 46017 should get you close:
I'm gonna have to come for a visit and just fix all for you, right?
Those codes are Lean Bank 1 & Lean Bank 2 which almost always points to the PCV tube elbow at the back lower of the throttle body. Remove the dog house, dig through the insulation wrapped around that tubing and you should see the elbow has split apart of perhaps fallen off its inlet.
How you ridin' around with no heat? I'll bet the wife unit ain't lovin' you just now right?
I'm prepared to buy you a ticket on Southwest!
Such a pain in the ***! Even took her to two shops today and asked them to just get the hoses off the core and toss in the new blend door. They refused on the grounds that it was a customer-supplied part and didn't want to do it for fears of blah blah blah. I bet that they tried and failed and tossed me a false excuse.
Thankfully, we have two vehicles..and the GF takes the bus to work. But our other vehicle is German so that's even worse! But the German car has heat
Went in to Napa, Oreilly and AutoZone this afternoon and none of them have the heater core tools. They all have the fuel line tools, but that's it. Gonna check the local Ford dealer in the morning.
My boat is cheaper and easier to maintain than this van.
Thankfully, we have two vehicles..and the GF takes the bus to work. But our other vehicle is German so that's even worse! But the German car has heat [/quote]
I can go ya one better on German---have a Swedish nightmare, aka '99 Volvo S80 T6. Beginning to discover this cheap beater car could quickly turn into a money pit. PVC system affects the throttle body, leaking heater core floods interior and also affects throttle body operation. Fixing any one of those issues potentially running $1K or more---paid $800 for the car--time to call the recycler.
Originally Posted by gcvt
Went in to Napa, Oreilly and AutoZone this afternoon and none of them have the heater core tools. They all have the fuel line tools, but that's it. Gonna check the local Ford dealer in the morning.
My boat is cheaper and easier to maintain than this van.
Thought you'd bought the Cal Van tools for heater hose removal? I know you lost one but thought you'd have found it by now?
Understandably most shops won't install customer parts because they're blamed if those parts fail too soon according to customer expectations. Honestly there's not a huge mark up on parts, typically +20% but labor is almost always the costly part of repairs these days. Do keep in mind the factory calls for about 10 hours labor to service the heater core which would include accessing or replacing the blend door. Ford's recommended procedure begins with removing the dash board AND steering column WTH? Its only now that screw up high begins to make sense huh?
Thought you'd bought the Cal Van tools for heater hose removal? I know you lost one but thought you'd have found it by now?
Understandably most shops won't install customer parts because they're blamed if those parts fail too soon according to customer expectations. Honestly there's not a huge mark up on parts, typically +20% but labor is almost always the costly part of repairs these days. Do keep in mind the factory calls for about 10 hours labor to service the heater core which would include accessing or replacing the blend door. Ford's recommended procedure begins with removing the dash board AND steering column WTH? Its only now that screw up high begins to make sense huh?
Unfortunately I lost two of the four and haven't found either one of them
I'm gonna have to come for a visit and just fix all for you, right?
Those codes are Lean Bank 1 & Lean Bank 2 which almost always points to the PCV tube elbow at the back lower of the throttle body. Remove the dog house, dig through the insulation wrapped around that tubing and you should see the elbow has split apart of perhaps fallen off its inlet.
How you ridin' around with no heat? I'll bet the wife unit ain't lovin' you just now right?
That part appears to be in good condition. Same goes for the fitting where that line enters the manifold. Might try cleaning the MAF, yes? The grommet that the PCV valve sits in doesn't seem like a very tight fit though.
The valve cover grommet can be replaced easily enough--its just a plug in the valve cover itself, should pop or pull right out. Motor Craft PCV's include the new grommet, typically about $12. Local parts outfits should have those by the bushel.
Not sure cleaning the MAF will be the answer to your DTC's however that's not a bad step anyway. Look around for another potential intake leak, like the large tube running from the air cleaner housing back to the throttle body. My '00 had one of the fitting bosses splitting and cracking, not holding the connecting tubes very snugly. I replaced that whole thing for about $100---easy job, just a few large hose clamps.
The valve cover grommet can be replaced easily enough--its just a plug in the valve cover itself, should pop or pull right out. Motor Craft PCV's include the new grommet, typically about $12. Local parts outfits should have those by the bushel.
Not sure cleaning the MAF will be the answer to your DTC's however that's not a bad step anyway. Look around for another potential intake leak, like the large tube running from the air cleaner housing back to the throttle body. My '00 had one of the fitting bosses splitting and cracking, not holding the connecting tubes very snugly. I replaced that whole thing for about $100---easy job, just a few large hose clamps.
Thank you. I shall check that as well.
After looking under the hood today, it's clear that the shop I went to yesterday tried to remove the heater core hoses but failed. When they put things back together, they had a hose routed on top of the air filter assembly and forgot to bolt the oil filler tube bracket back on. Not wanting to install customer supplied parts was just a BS excuse
Okay so I'm completely confused now! This shop couldn't or didn't remove the factory quick disconnect hoses to the heater core? AND they somehow managed to get them wrapped around something? That's pretty amazing because there's not usually enough slack in those hoses to do more than run to their destination.
This so-called shop needs to be abandoned ASAP----they seem to be morons at best. I've removed those factory fittings with nothing more than fingers pressing in on the locking tabs. With the proper tools this is a falling-off-a-log easy and simple.
The rest of what they "forgot" scares the BeJesus outta me---find any of their tools in there?
Sorry, I wasn't too clear. It wasn't either of the heater core hoses. There's a lot of extra hoses in that area because Sportsmobile tapped in to the factory A/C to run the rear Starcool A/C unit, among other things they added under the hood. One of these hoses runs under the left side of the air intake, but when I looked under the hood, it was kind of resting on top of the intake. It's obvious that they tried to get the hoses off, had trouble, and gave up. They just routed that one hose wrong and forgot to bolt the oil fill tube bracket back on. They had the proper long black quick disconnect tool, so I'm guessing the lower hose is just seized on the core. With all the extra crap that Sportsmobile put in, it's nearly impossible to get to the heater core hoses.
And things just keep getting worse. In addition to the stubborn heater core and vacuum leak, my daily driver is out of commission too LOL!
Anyway, not sure where to go from here. If a shop with the proper tool, and great Yelp reviews by the way, can't get the thing out I've obviously got a problem. Maybe order a new core and just cut the old one out. This is taking entirely too long. Sounded like a good idea to do it myself to save some money, but I'm past that LOL.
IF the factory attached hoses to the heater core are all that's holding it in AND you're replacing the heater core anyway then hacking it out will work. Admittedly I'm lost as to why those can't be removed but not being there hinders me greatly. Sorry if I come across as impatient or dense about this aspect.
IF the core is mangled and/or replaced appropriately sized heater hoses can stil be attached with the usual worm drive clamps we've been using for the past 100 years. I personally use single ear pinch clamps but that's totally unnecessary if you're not equipped to do so. Honestly those aren't really any better or reliable, just different.
If you do start hacking, whacking and chopping be VERY CAREFUL around the A/C evaporator----don't wanna beat a leak into that thing.
Well, I thought I had made some progress on the CEL by cleaning the MAF, but the CEL came back a day later. Can't even secure the smallest victory it seems.
As for the core, I've got one more guy to give a shot on Friday afternoon. If that fails, I might have to get barbaric on it. I cannot understand why it won't come out either, but it's been in there for 17 years. Stubborn old *******.
Can't really do much until I get my daily driver fixed on Friday morning. Once that's done, I can get back to concentrating on the van without worrying about not being able to get to work, etc.
I bought new quick disconnects (complete ones and just the white parts), o-rings, etc. just to have them on hand. We'll see how it goes and what gets used and/or returned. I might just order a new factory core tomorrow which would put it here on Friday, and the return it if I don't need it.
After the core and vacuum leak are fixed, I still have that short on the #4 circuit to figure out. Can't very well live with no radio, keyless entry, power mirrors, and dome light right?
I had similar problem diconnecting the fittings to my heater core . I finally hack sawed the fittings off and spliced new connections onto the new heater hoses.
I admit not the best soulotion but frustration sometimes finds its own solutions
Good luck Dont we all love quick connect fittings, the good ones are good the hard to reach ones suck. If hose clamps were used it would take ten minutes to get the hoses off!
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