Monster White-Rodgers Glow Plug Relay


So I saw this Monster GPR mentioned by Projectdually in "Trouble starting in 35 degree weather" thread and was curious about it. No doubt it's much larger than the stock one and apparently only a few bucks more than the stock GPR from Napa.


Is anyone on here running it? Real world reviews? Just found out my GPR is dead and it's this or a stock one.

 

That's what is on mine.works great.about 4-5 yes old

 

Have 'em in both our '95s, about 4 years. Working great so far. Just started both last night, no block heater, aprx. 15F, run the GPs an extra 10-15 seconds, started right up. And yes, it even fits under the "Darth Vader" cover.

The IDI, I'm thinking about a Western Plow 56131K. I've read it's every bit as capable as the Stancor, but about half the price.

 

I also have the Stancor, been working good for five years now.

 

Zack, that GPR is pretty much the almost permanent fix to our GPR problems. It's mentioned in PSN, PSA, and a couple other forums as well. Some give it mixed reviews, but honestly, you get the 1:100 that's bad and you move on to try something else. QC doesn't always catch em all!

 

Yeah I tested my GRP this morning and dead so I remembered you mentioning the Monster and I instantly started looking for reviews.


I seen someone on PSN mention the Western one saying "it's as good or better and only about $11.00" I assume the price is exaggerated, but still. Although someone asked them for feedback on it and that person didn't reply further.


Hopefully will have the new GPR by Wednesday, thankfully being a carpenter I can just plug the truck in around lunch and it starts by quitting time.

 

^^^^^ You can also, for the time being, jump the relay with a screwdriver or jumper cable across the big terminals. 10-15 seconds should do.

 

I've heard some people say its bad to run, but i've had no issues in 5 years.

 

If I jump it with a screw driver am I doing this before or after I turn the key to run?

 

you jump the solenoid before starting.

You are essentially doing what the solenoid is supposed to be doing, inside it bridges it, but when it fails, it no longer creates the bridge.

 

Yeah I seen some test videos yesterday, found out that even if it clicks, the contacts inside could be burned out.


I did try to jump the relay IIRC sometime last week with a screwdriver. Turned the key on, jumped with a screwdriver (read that if it's cold, like it was, to hold it for 60 seconds) so I did and it failed to start.


Didn't see any burned wires when I changed GPs and everything is well within specs for testing the GP wires and UVCH plugs.

 

Technically, either way. The coil circuit of the relay is dependent on they key in the RUN position, but by jumpering it, you're rendering the coil circuit irrelevant. The hot side of the contact circuit is hot all the time. So you can do this before or after turning the key to RUN.
Correct.

Well, one remaining possibility is that the hot side of the contact circuit is no longer hot. It's energized by a parallel pair of fusible links, running from the junction point on the starter relay to the "first" big terminal on the GP relay. Those links are indistinguishable from ordinary wires, and even when they burn up, sometimes it's not visible. So check for 12V at that terminal on the GP relay. If it's not 12V at all times (may drop to 11-ish with the key in RUN), then those links are suspect.

Another way to jump the relay is to run a jumper cable directly from one of the battery positives to the "other" big terminal on the GP relay (the one with the wires that go to the GPs). This bypasses not just the relay, but the above-mentioned fusible links. Again, this would just be a stop-gap.

 

From what I checked, after watching a few videos:


Same voltage from battery, to starter relay, to always hot lead of GPR.


Key on, PCM lead showing battery voltage. So the last place to check is the other large terminal powering the GP harness and that has 0 volts when you turn the key on like it should, so failed GPR right?

 

The PCM lead is a ground. It should be tested with a continuity or resistance test to ground. Key off, it should be "open" (infinite resistance, no continuity). Key on, it should be "closed" (continuity, zero or very low resistance). If so, and esp. if you hear the relay click, but still zero volts at the large terminal powering the GPs, then yes, that indicates failed GP relay.