Correct Torque Spindle Nuts?
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Correct Torque Spindle Nuts?
I have gotten many different answers (even found a few different ones on this forum haha) for exact torque specs/procedure for 95 f150 spindle nuts. I seated new wheel bearings with 30-40 lbs then retightened by feel to 17-20. But some say as much as 180 to seat and 60 retighten. Thoughts?
Post Fiend
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
I do all tapered roller wheel bearngs the same, trailer hubs, front and rear bearings on my 2 and 4x4 trucks, whatever. Just tighten it up good and tight while spinning it, back it off then snug it enough to take the play out of the bearing plus a little preload. Its really not THAT critical. Depending on what you are working on, you usually have to tighten or loosen it a little to get a cotter pin or something to line up anyway.
Post Fiend
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Brakes dragging is my guess.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Orcas Island, WA
The Ford service manual for my 1990 says 20-30 ft/lbs for an F150. It may be different for your 1995.
Definitely look for a dragging brake caliper. If you're checking for heat by feeling the hub, try feeling the caliper as well. That should give you an indication of where the heat is coming from.
Definitely look for a dragging brake caliper. If you're checking for heat by feeling the hub, try feeling the caliper as well. That should give you an indication of where the heat is coming from.
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Post Fiend
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66360/457377.pdf
Has many applications, code letters for specific procedure. 1995 F150 included. The end torque value isn't going to be much, though if you tighten to 60 foot pounds it's gonna smoke those bearings guaranteed. You had it right the first time, spin the wheel a few times and seat the bearings well and back off till ~20 is perfect.
Has many applications, code letters for specific procedure. 1995 F150 included. The end torque value isn't going to be much, though if you tighten to 60 foot pounds it's gonna smoke those bearings guaranteed. You had it right the first time, spin the wheel a few times and seat the bearings well and back off till ~20 is perfect.
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Laughing Gas
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From: Orcas Island, WA
When seating the bearings you want to ensure that the wheel is continuously rotated as you apply the seating torque. If you don't do that the rollers will make an indentation in the race. (There's a technical term for the indents but I don't recall it.) While it can be done by one person, it's a lot easier to have an assistance for this step.
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I too have never actually used a torque spec, same procedure as everyone else, spin wheel while tightening, back off , then gently turn down til nut resists.
One thing I learned was that once you eliminate your end play, you can make sure you didn't over tighten by using a flat bade screwdriver and apply downward or upward pressure on washer ,it should still be able to move just slightly, Iv never had a issue with this method.
One thing I learned was that once you eliminate your end play, you can make sure you didn't over tighten by using a flat bade screwdriver and apply downward or upward pressure on washer ,it should still be able to move just slightly, Iv never had a issue with this method.
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From: SW Florida
Your 95 is probably the same as my 96.
The right way to do it is spin the wheel while tightening the nut up to 70 (yes seventy) ft-lbs. then back the nut off 1/4 turn, then torque it to 20 ft-lbs. That being said, you can just do it by feel as the guys have mentioned above. I've done that plenty of times on lots of my Fords and never once had a problem.
The outer lock nut is supposed to go to I think 150 ft-lbs but I never torque that one. Instead I just put my 1/2" Earthquake impact to it and let that tap on it a few times... probably a bit more that 150 ft-lbs that way but I'd rather be too tight than too loose. You won't hurt the bearings if you over tighten the lock nut, all it does is keep the preload nut from moving so you want it in there good.
The right way to do it is spin the wheel while tightening the nut up to 70 (yes seventy) ft-lbs. then back the nut off 1/4 turn, then torque it to 20 ft-lbs. That being said, you can just do it by feel as the guys have mentioned above. I've done that plenty of times on lots of my Fords and never once had a problem.
The outer lock nut is supposed to go to I think 150 ft-lbs but I never torque that one. Instead I just put my 1/2" Earthquake impact to it and let that tap on it a few times... probably a bit more that 150 ft-lbs that way but I'd rather be too tight than too loose. You won't hurt the bearings if you over tighten the lock nut, all it does is keep the preload nut from moving so you want it in there good.
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Thanks folks.
I'm pretty sure the brakes aren't dragging but I will make sure.
Do new bearings heat up more than old ones initially? I have heard that they do until they get excess grease out and "break in", but that doesn't make much sense to my brain. Seems there should be very little "break in" if seated correctly and the grease I would think would come out pretty quick.
I'm pretty sure the brakes aren't dragging but I will make sure.
Do new bearings heat up more than old ones initially? I have heard that they do until they get excess grease out and "break in", but that doesn't make much sense to my brain. Seems there should be very little "break in" if seated correctly and the grease I would think would come out pretty quick.
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