late 04 no start Please Help!
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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I found the same start/no start and it was the crank shaft position sensor in the front left block under the power steering pump. I used a swivel with a 8mm twelve point socket and a long extension from below. I did not have to move the power steering pump. The sensor was a little long and I was able to slightly bend it to remove and install the new one. It only cost $42.00 at Ford.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 166
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
I found the same start/no start and it was the crank shaft position sensor in the front left block under the power steering pump. I used a swivel with a 8mm twelve point socket and a long extension from below. I did not have to move the power steering pump. The sensor was a little long and I was able to slightly bend it to remove and install the new one. It only cost $42.00 at Ford.
Im curious other then cam/crank sync how else can you tell if it is a good or bad sensor. I don't think it is this sensor cause I have an air leak but have always been curious on how to determine if sensor is bad or not.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
dtleal, I think you are talking about the cam sensor. The crank sensor is on the passenger side.
Cam and cranks sensors on the 6.0 rarely fail. I believe they are essentially magnets with no moving parts. The cam/crank sync function on any live data device lets you know if the is a problem.
Most times when there is no sync for a no start, the problem us a chaffed wire or a loose connect. Mine was a loose connection. The pigtail would not seat into the sensor. Visual inspection revealed the sensor connector had an issue. I could have reused it, but it's such a pain to access, it was worth the $35 to avoid the risk of having to go in again.
So, if you have a no sync, you should rule out the wiring issues first. I removed the middle pcm connection and tested the pins to to sensor for ground, open circuits and resistance before removing the sensor.
Cam and cranks sensors on the 6.0 rarely fail. I believe they are essentially magnets with no moving parts. The cam/crank sync function on any live data device lets you know if the is a problem.
Most times when there is no sync for a no start, the problem us a chaffed wire or a loose connect. Mine was a loose connection. The pigtail would not seat into the sensor. Visual inspection revealed the sensor connector had an issue. I could have reused it, but it's such a pain to access, it was worth the $35 to avoid the risk of having to go in again.
So, if you have a no sync, you should rule out the wiring issues first. I removed the middle pcm connection and tested the pins to to sensor for ground, open circuits and resistance before removing the sensor.
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
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You are correct. It is the cam sensor. I chased the no start problem for 18 months and was towed home 10 times. The truck would start usually cold and then no start. It ran great when started. I replace the many parts. I finally replaced the sensor and the truck ran great. No more maxing out the tow card. The part was cheap and easy to replace (except for the bolt) and it worked great. Intermittent starting was hard to test the sensor. Worked for me.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
so ive done a few things since last post but still no luck... my cam?crank sensor are showing to be synced. i got an ipr air tool that connects air directly into the ipr port. i was getting a leak from the rear of the passenger side oil rail but couldnt find or see were exactly it was coming from but, could feel air back there. i pulled my pump cover and rigged an air line into the j-tube while connected to the pump. i am getting air from the behind the pump.. so now im really worried about that... i am going to do two more air test and see what the outcomes are. im going to do an air test through the icp port and also with the ipr tool through the ipr port and see if there is any difference and go from there unless any of you have a suggestion i am all ears!
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Fort Worth, Tx
That I'm not sure. It was leaking air from the back of the passenger side rail. The back nipple cup wiggles or moves easily compared to the others are alot more stiff. So i suspect that possibility being it. I'm not sure all I know is to do good air test again real good and see what I can find.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 149
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From: Missouri
I installed an Adrenaline HPOP last spring.The old J-tube wiggled so I bought a new one from Ford.It wiggled just as much as the old one.Went ahead and put it back together. Scan gauge showed 3900 psi at wot.Unless the seals in the end of the tube are damaged a little wiggle is normal. Mark
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