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I have been chasing an electrical gremlin since the spring time!
I had a bad injector in hole #5. Confirmed with a contribution test along with drivability issues! Replaced the injector and all was good except I was having phantom contribution issues. This was confirmed by myself and 2 garages. Contribution test and compression tests.
I have been getting from time to time bogus other codes for crank sensor and synch. Truck still starts and runs.
Fast forward to tonight. The kids and I went to check on my Mother's grave marker that was just set a week ago. As we pulled up to a light, I let of the gas and applied the brakes. The truck shut off like I turned the key off. Put it in neutral and it fired right up. Drove a few minutes down the road and pull into a parking lot. Put my AE on it and it has codes for #5 & 6 injectors. I clear the codes and drive home 45 minutes and check for codes. There were no codes at all!
So where do I go from this point? I have checked everything that I can. 2 shops have also. WE all agree that tossing parts is not a good idea. All connections have been checked a few times. Wiring harness does not show any visible chaffing. FLP, FMP and Alt voltage all are good on the Scan Gauge and verified with a multimeter. Batteries have not been checked because they do not drop under 11.5 when starting.
Is there anything in the FICM that could cause this issue?
I have been chasing an electrical gremlin since the spring time!
I had a bad injector in hole #5. Confirmed with a contribution test along with drivability issues! Replaced the injector and all was good except I was having phantom contribution issues. This was confirmed by myself and 2 garages. Contribution test and compression tests.
I have been getting from time to time bogus other codes for crank sensor and synch. Truck still starts and runs.
Fast forward to tonight. The kids and I went to check on my Mother's grave marker that was just set a week ago. As we pulled up to a light, I left of the gas and applied the brakes. The truck shut off like I turned the key off. Put it in neutral and it fired right up. Drove a few minutes down the road and pull into a parking lot. Put my AE on it and it has codes for #5 & 6 injectors. I clear the codes and drive home 45 minutes and check for codes. There were no codes at all!
So where do I go from this point? I have checked everything that I can. 2 shops have also. WE all agree that tossing parts is not a good idea. All connections have been checked a few times. Wiring harness does not show any visible chaffing. FLP, FMP and Alt voltage all are good on the Scan Gauge and verified with a multimeter. Batteries have not been checked because they do not drop under 11.5 when starting.
Is there anything in the FICM that could cause this issue?
May not have been bogus but a temporay loss of signal either way not germain to your problem I think.
Sorry I been up for too long getting a little punch drunk. Can't think clearly I don't want to missguide you. Gnite
That was what I wanted to verify! I already had it in the Scan Gauge. Flipped one of readouts to that this am. I saw it drop to 4 volts 3 times in a 2 minute drive. Any idea on what or were I need to start digging in at?
Shot in the dark but I'd unplug the EBP sensor first and see if vRef stays steady at 5v or very near it. Being it's an '03 it may not run any different if it got the inferred EBP software update.
Shot in the dark but I'd unplug the EBP sensor first and see if vRef stays steady at 5v or very near it. Being it's an '03 it may not run any different if it got the inferred EBP software update.
Rusty is right. We have seen a few of the EBP sensors give people fits.
Then after they unplug the silly thing the truck runs right. Then you
will know that it's the sensor/pigtail or both.
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