Pain less wiring does have some nice kits. On my 68 mustang I used their kits to have modern electric on the car. Everything was pre-made for the vehicle and worked perfect. On my previous trucks when I added electrical items I added a separate system for them. I just seems like a good idea to keep the add on items on their own system.

 

I couldn't agree more. Separate systems make for easier troubleshooting when things go wrong as well. Mine is a Factory Five Cobra. Still in progress but she should be getting plates next spring.

 

Cool car. Do you have pic's in your FTE garage?

 

I've been trying to upload a photo I took a couple of weeks ago but I can seen to figure it out.
If someone can talk me through it I'll post a pic.

 

This is from about a month ago.

 

Looks nice, I'm sure that will be a fun car to drive! I see you are partial to red vehicles.

 

Actually the car will be Lamborghini yellow. The red is just the gel coat. The body work has been going on for close to a year now. It's powered by a 5.0 that we built from the crank up. Puts out about 345 HP. Being a 2000 lb car, it doesnt take too long to get up to highway speed. Fun is what it's about cuz it sure ain't practical. Lol

 

Allow me to wrangle in the thread again

Hoping you will chime in again tvjsr!

I have decided to go with what you have recommended. I'm going to run the the low amp stuff off the blue sea block you recommended so I don't have to add any relays. However I have decided to add a second battery to run the plow, and any large eccessory like the inverte or later on board air etc.

For now let's stick with the battery system, protection of the truck is my primary concern. I have decided to mount the batter on the frame under the bed (will probably go with an optima so I can put it in a battery box). I want the plow and anything else to ONLY pull off the second battery, therefore isolating the main vehicle system. A I see it I just run large cable (probably 2 ga for the run back to under the bed) from the primary batteries terminal, fusing this wire as close to the primary battery as possible. Then again fuse the same wire right before it enters the new battery, the isolator would be in between these two fuses I suppose? Do you have a recommendation on an isolator? Seems like the auto parts stores sell thm for 30-80$ but I don't want to cheap out if it's an issue. Then I will install an Anderson connector so I can plug in the (probably again 2ga) cables to run up to the plow, with a second set of cables to plug In when I'm not using the plow that will run the inverter or anything else. Please let me know what you think of this. The main reason I am doing this is for the plow. Considering its a 40k truck after taxes and warranty and a 6k plow setup I may as well lay out the 3-400 extra this will cost me. I would probably even use this for my jumper cables as again it would help protect the truck.

ETA in regards to the battery state of charging, can you detail a bit how to make sure the blue sea block goes "through" the sensor, or will it matter since you said to unplug the sensor for daul batteries (will I need to unplug it if I'm running an isolator? I'd rather not if I can leave it in place). ETA again. I will go out again in the morning and look for the amp clamps. Maybe it is just better to unplug these. I hate to but I just watched makulocos video. I wanted to isolate the new battery but perhaps the solenoid isolation is better? Your opinion on this is greatly appreciated. I've been reading some of your posts. It's obvious you've got a handle on these new f150's! Maybe unplug them and use a diode isolated? Hell I dunno

Appreciate the great help as I will be isolating these accessories already stated and the plow from the vehicle which should totally protect it barring an appearance from Murphy which would probably leave me looking for a tall building to jump off of!

Z