"One Wire" alternator install help
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Reedy, WV
"One Wire" alternator install help
Hello everyone,
I just got a great deal on a Tuff Stuff one wire alternator (100 amp) from a buddy. Now Ive done this swap before on my 79 and had no issues at all but on my 82 F150 Im at a stand still. My main issue deals with the "plug" coming from the stock alternator, that connects to the factory wire loom. When this plug is taken apart, none of my accessories work, lights, even the truck won't turn over. So what do I splice into or what do I connect to install this new alternator? Normally I would just run a hot wire from the new alternator to the battery and positive post of the solenoid and be done. But obviously, they decided to make things a little more involved in 82 lol
I just got a great deal on a Tuff Stuff one wire alternator (100 amp) from a buddy. Now Ive done this swap before on my 79 and had no issues at all but on my 82 F150 Im at a stand still. My main issue deals with the "plug" coming from the stock alternator, that connects to the factory wire loom. When this plug is taken apart, none of my accessories work, lights, even the truck won't turn over. So what do I splice into or what do I connect to install this new alternator? Normally I would just run a hot wire from the new alternator to the battery and positive post of the solenoid and be done. But obviously, they decided to make things a little more involved in 82 lol
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 116
From: Saskatchewan Canada
Just a matter of time before someone tells you to pass on the one wire alternator and go for the 3G conversion.
Time is up!
Go 3G and here is why.
Catalog
Still your question about the electrical dying when the plug is pulled is valid. If I recall correctly, battery power to your entire truck is looped through the alternator connector instead of powering the truck directly off the battery cable at the starter solenoid. There likely are two large wires going to the output stud on your original alternator. Neat idea in that it does exactly what you noticed, the electrical is completely disconnected when the alternator is removed, but all that current through plug connectors makes for a trouble spot. You would either have to jumper it at the plug, or rewire the vehicle load to the solenoid with a fusible link.
Time is up!
Go 3G and here is why.
Catalog
Still your question about the electrical dying when the plug is pulled is valid. If I recall correctly, battery power to your entire truck is looped through the alternator connector instead of powering the truck directly off the battery cable at the starter solenoid. There likely are two large wires going to the output stud on your original alternator. Neat idea in that it does exactly what you noticed, the electrical is completely disconnected when the alternator is removed, but all that current through plug connectors makes for a trouble spot. You would either have to jumper it at the plug, or rewire the vehicle load to the solenoid with a fusible link.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Reedy, WV
I would love to leave the plug alone, but as stated, when the alternator is disconnected, all electric is removed from the truck. My 79 was wired from the solenoid so it had current without an alternator. Ok, well I already have the other alternator that I paid for, so I would like to go ahead and put it on. What size fuseable link would you suggest I use? Im thinking the better idea will be to eliminate the plug all together and go right to the solenoid as mentioned above. Also, the only wire I should have to worry about is the main hot wire on the plug right? There are 3 other wires connected to the plug but I believe they are involved with the stock voltage regulator so ill just remove them once I install the new alternator. of course ill leave plenty of extra wire incase I have to go back lol
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,949
Likes: 2,718
From: Virginia
The only alternator system that had a plug for the output and two wires also, was the 2G alternator with the internal regulator. Is this what you have? I didn't know they started that back in 82.
If it is true what you have, why not cut the wires, twist them together and insulate? You could use a butt splice. Or you could use the two wires to connect to your new alternator depending on how large the new alternator is. If it's 100 amp or over, you should run a new wire to the battery or the solenoid.
If it is true what you have, why not cut the wires, twist them together and insulate? You could use a butt splice. Or you could use the two wires to connect to your new alternator depending on how large the new alternator is. If it's 100 amp or over, you should run a new wire to the battery or the solenoid.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If it's a 2G there are two plugs.
The regulator plug. (same as a 3G; yellow/white, green/red, white/black)
And the infamous "fire plug"; two 10Ga black/orange wires and the white/black stator wire.
Get rid of the dangerous charging lead and install a 4-6 Ga. cable with a fusible link or Mega Fuse.
Self exciting "one wire" alternators don't do so well at low rpm's.
The regulator plug. (same as a 3G; yellow/white, green/red, white/black)
And the infamous "fire plug"; two 10Ga black/orange wires and the white/black stator wire.
Get rid of the dangerous charging lead and install a 4-6 Ga. cable with a fusible link or Mega Fuse.
Self exciting "one wire" alternators don't do so well at low rpm's.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,491
Likes: 26
From: Algona,WA
Take that 1 wire alternator and throw it back at your buddy. 3G is the way to do it with these rigs.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Reedy, WV
Just posting a follow up. Install went great. I ended up running a hot wire to the battery. a ground wire from the alternator. As for the Plug, the hot wire linking to the factory harness I hooked to the solenoid with a fusable link. All the voltages check out, and everything seems to function great.
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