Okay, can't figure out exactly where to put this question so here goes. I need to pull the cruise control servo on my 93 XLT to get to the PCM harness and retainer bolts, but I don't want to mess this up. How hard is it to pull the servo off the inner fender liner? I can see a bolt/nut that holds the bracket to the side of the fender but I can feel another attachment point underneath (can't see it) with no bolt/nut that I can find. Other option is to pull the wiring harness connector that goes through the firewall, move it out of the way and guess at where to drill an access hole through the fender liner from the wheel well to get to the bottom nut that holds the PCM in. I gotta pull the PCM and open it up to check for bad/leaking capacitors on the circuit board and maybe solder new capacitors on myself. It's that or $250 plus for a rebuilt/replacement PCM and $$$ is real tight right now...3 people on 1 paycheck. The servo itself and cruise work great and don't want to mess that up by guessing.

 

Wow, 54 views of this post and no one has any experience or insight to help...kinda sad comment about the forum I guess.
For what it's worth, here's a followup: stopped at A-zone on the way home from work and bought a set of 2 flexible socket extensions (1/4 and 3/8 drive). Very good investment for $15 cause the 3/8ths extension helped me pull the PCM from my 93 Ranger. In order to do this you need sheer determination, cause the engineer who placed the PCM should be shot...what a pain in the ****!
You remove the cruise control servo with one bolt on the fender side...the other end of the bracket simply pulls out of a slot further down in the fender well. Then you have to remove the white wiring connector that goes through the firewall to the inside of the cab...difficulty level 1.5 so far. Then you remove a 10mm bolt that holds the PCM connector to the PCM...somewhat difficult given the odd shape of the connector and very little room to pull the connector off.
Then you remove a 10mm nut at the top of the PCM keeper/holder, which is simply black rubber. The real bee-atch is getting to the bottom 11mm nut that secures the rubber PCM keeper/holder...without a flexible socket extension you would have to pull the driver's wheel/tire and start drilling access holes opposite the bottom nut/bolt through the inner fender liner. There is an oval cutout in the inner metal fender for just this purpose, but there is so little room in there that you can't use a U-joint socket head..no chance. I took a pry bar and BFH and knocked the inner metal fender down right at the bottom of the oval cutout, just to make room for the flexible extension and socket.
Then you manhandle the PCM connector and wiring harness out of the way and start pulling the rubber PCM keeper/holder off. After you fight that off and get it out, you realize you have to disconnect a pair of ground wires that bolt to the fender right under the cruise control servo...otherwise there is no way to pull the PCM straight out after you pull the entire wiring harness toward the intake and up as far as you can.
Odd thing is the PCM fits very loosely in its slot in the firewall..you would think they would have engineered a tight fit, but only the rubber keeper/holder holds it in place securely. Got the PCM out and removed six small, long bolts in its case to reveal the circuit board inside...NO BAD CAPACITORS!!! like I suspected. Put the PCM cover back on, wrestled the PCM back into its slot in the firewall then a long struggle to fit the rubber keeper/holder over the end of the PCM that protrudes from the firewall where the connector bolts onto it. Then it's a minor struggle to rebolt the PCM holder/keeper back to the firewall, followed by a long, bloody struggle to get the PCM connector positioned JUST RIGHT and get it bolted back on...several frosty beverages are recommended at this point. Then you rebolt the ground wires back to the fender, reattach the white electrical connector to the firewall and reattach the cruise control servo to the fender.
All of this points to a bad MAF sensor (second aftermarket one I've installed) or a bad/poor MAF connection at the connector. With everything put back together and the MAF reconnected, the truck is not misfiring and running rough now...ran real good, but there's always tomorrow.
It's had a randomly occurring misfire, running rough condition for about the past year that seems aggravated by wet weather. I replaced plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor, checked coil and all other sensors for voltage, and replaced the ICM which is up by the radiator support...plus 2 MAF sensors...over the course of the past 2 months. I though all of this had solved the problem, but it gradually returned and the only codes it set were MAF sensor below voltage range, and MAF sensor out of voltage range.
I'll check codes again tomorrow after the big PCM adventure. Other threads I have found over the past month while doing online research on this problem often point to 1 to 3 bad electrolytic capacitors on the PCM circuit board, and problem resolution by removing them and replacing/resoldering with new capacitors. That's what I was expecting/hoping to find after chasing this problem for several months.
Now it's back to square 1...hope this post helps another person who has to pull their PCM...fortunately on later models (95-96 and thereafter) the engineers moved the PCM right up front on the middle of the firewall. Jeez...wonder why???