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75 F150 Electrical problems, help needed

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 03:59 PM
  #31  
skidoodave's Avatar
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Guy's, don't be using a radio shack resistor in an automotive application. The original wire had resistance built directly into the actual wire strands, it didn't have a little round resistor soldered in.

If the original resistor wire has been replaced from the back of the ignition switch to the coil with a regular wire then go to the parts store and purchase a ceramic type ballast resistor (aka Chrysler type) and put that in line. If any of you are old enough to remember the Chrysler ones you'll also remember how hot they got and some even had scorch marks or were cracked from the heat. A radio shack resistor aint gonna cut it.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 05:03 PM
  #32  
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Any wire-wound finned or heatsink resistor of the correct value should work just fine, though that was why I asked - the voltage drop required is considerable and am wondering if RS has those on the shelf. Maybe.

There isn't anything "special" about them, so long as the correct value is used.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #33  
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From: Idaho
I used a 10 watt. I will not get a chance to look at it until Friday.
(I also drive a School Bus. Thought about today While the kids wrestled) With a hot lead unrestricted from the "I" on the solenoid. Makes me think the truck should have fired. Maybe The wires from the ignition control module on the fender are the ones messed up. I put the wires together, and ran them along the manifold with the old wires from the ignition box.
Tomorrow I will look for the right resistor. I got the one Radio shack had with 1 ohm. Dave has good point, what was I thinking? Just seemed like the place to go for electronics, and the guys at the parts store almost hate to see me come in any more. They are also out of ideas on this truck.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2014 | 01:07 PM
  #34  
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ZarK-eh
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Originally Posted by skidoodave
Guy's, don't be using a radio shack resistor in an automotive application. The original wire had resistance built directly into the actual wire strands, it didn't have a little round resistor soldered in.

If the original resistor wire has been replaced from the back of the ignition switch to the coil with a regular wire then go to the parts store and purchase a ceramic type ballast resistor (aka Chrysler type) and put that in line. If any of you are old enough to remember the Chrysler ones you'll also remember how hot they got and some even had scorch marks or were cracked from the heat. A radio shack resistor aint gonna cut it.
Yeah, If I was going with a ceramic type ballast resistor, I'd run it outside in a place where it gets airflow. However, punching holes in the firewall might be prohibitive...

Head back to the parts store, and ask for a ignition coil resistor, I found this on napa's online site: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...R22_0158171002

Perhaps NumberDummy would be so kind as to give a Ferd Part number I can't imagine the part being too costly.
 

Last edited by ZarK-eh; Nov 26, 2014 at 01:17 PM. Reason: bah... words
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 12:25 PM
  #35  
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My truck runs. A purple wire was burnt between the icu box and the distributor. Took some time to find the wire and put everything back. Still have a few minor problems but will slowly get everything worked out.
 
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