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Hydrolock?

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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #1  
akamacgyver's Avatar
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Hydrolock?

Hey guys,

I had a little time before dark today to mess with the new rig. First thing I did was put a breaker bar on the crank pulley, and sure enough after about 1/4 rotation, a hard lock up with no give. Seems like hydrolock to me, so I started pulling glow plugs one at a time to see if she would rotate. I got 6 of 8 out, before it got too cold and dark to work, but she is still locked up. trans and transfer case are both in neutral. Anything else it could? It doesn't seem like there is any metallic clanking or anything when it locks up. Also, with the factory air cleaner and intake intact, if it is hydrolock, are there any other causes besides HG or cavitation?

Thanks,

Mac.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:36 PM
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Doesn't sound like hydrolock to me. A running hydrolock will destroy hard parts in a diesel with very little forgiveness. Gassers can pass a *little* liquid due to lower compression ratio.

Once shut down, air in the cylinder will cushion a hydrolock making it a spongy feel, and it *will* give since the liquid can sneak past the rings. Sounds like some kind of mechanical interference. Transmission destruction or shift linkage woes can lock it up too, but the first thing I'd do is pop off the valve covers after checking this by having someone push in the clutch to eliminate this possibility.

If you have 1/4 turn, that's at least some good news since the pistons aren't seized. If the valves aren't the issue, keep in mind that the injection pump is attached to the timing gears, and it could be the culprit too.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 06:29 PM
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Well I got the other two gp's out today, and with the clutch pushed all of the way in, it still locks up in the same place. I rotated it the other way about six flats or aprox 1 revolution, and it locked up going that way too. I guess I pull the valve covers off and take a look. Looks like I'll just do the 93 to 94 engine swap and be done with it.

Mac.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 06:46 PM
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So I finally got around to pulling one valve cover today, as the temp in Denver was above freezing, and sure enough, I have at least one bent posh rod. I have not removed the other side yet, but will do so when I get some more time. The question is, what will the next step be? I did notice, the coolant level is below the fins in the radiator. Should I drain the fluids and see if they are contaminated. Should I try a leak down test, and if so, should I pull all of the rockers first? I don't mind admitting, I am not a mechanic. I know how and why an engine works, but I am no gear head. I am very mechanically inclined. After all, I didn't get my nickname/screen name for nothing, but I am not sure of the best way to proceed here. Here are a couple pix of the bent push rod.






Thanks for any help you can give,

Mac.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 08:27 PM
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That sounds like there might be something /in/ the cyl?

Honestly, I'd probably end up pulling the heads Just because I'd not be sure what else is wrong; get a good look at the insides.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 12:58 AM
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something blocked that valve from moving. there is zero space in that cylinder.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 01:25 AM
  #7  
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Speed, I'm not really sure what that means. could hydrolock have done it, or would it have taken something solid in the cylinder? I guess what I am asking is, Is there any chance that this motor is salvageable, or am I beating a dead horse? With the gp's out will it hurt any to try to turn it by hand again to see if it still binds? Should I pull the injector in that cylinder and see if it is intact? I hate to leave the obvious stone unturned.

Mac, I'm not going to pull the heads with the motor in, I have a great running motor in my 94 that I would swap out before I did that, I'm just wondering if I should investigate resurrecting this motor any further.

Thanks again,

Mac.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 06:54 AM
  #8  
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hydrolock will not bend pushrods, it will bend connecting rods.
the only way to tell what is wrong with that engine is to pull the heads.
 
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