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This has been an issue on every 4x4 super duty made with the dana axle. It gets cold and they don't want to engage.
I want to rebuild mine with fresh lubricants one day, I always think about it but never have done it.
I have to disagree wit the warning message. On my 2011 I had a bad air fitting on the locker - I could only get into 4x4 by manually locking in. I never got any errors, I just knew 4x4 wasn't engaged because only the back tires were spinning. Now granted, I wasn't driving in 4x4 at highway speeds, just parking lot speeds, so maybe if there is a great disparity it sets the trouble code.
I apologize for not being clear on my last post and causing confusion. Also me changing the terminology doesn’t help. The flashing 4x4 indicating light (Not warning message) is produced by the transfer case. The hubs don’t produce the 4x4 light to come on or flash. For one example, when you move the selector from 2WD to 4WD the transfer case tries to bring the front drive shaft to the same speed as the rear drive shaft. If it doesn’t happen after a few attempts then the truck assumes there is a problem and makes the light flash. There are clutches that bring the front drive shaft up to speed and shift motors in the transfer case. Any abnormal rotating resistance of the front drive train can cause problems. Below is a link that the experts explain.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o> </o> Information direct from the manual.<o></o> http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/2843137-post21.html
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If you manually lock in the hubs can you use the switch in the cabin to unlock or do you have to manually unlock? I do not live in a climate that i need to have them locked in all winter.
If you manually lock the hubs in, then you must manually unlock them as well. In this manner the switch will only be operating the transfer case.
the ability to manually lock the hubs is just a redundant feature. In case of a failure. but what has happened is it becomes almost a default to do this in the colder climates.
Once the weather warmed up the shift on the fly worked perfectly, however the other day it got to -15F and 4x4 wouldn't engage anymore, I manually locked the hubs in, and turned the **** to 4x4 high. It took a bit to engage so I left the hubs locked in. This morning it was again -15F, the hubs are locked in I turned the **** to 4x4 High, and I received the warning light. What do I need to do with the hubs that are in the locked position to work?
Once the weather warmed up the shift on the fly worked perfectly, however the other day it got to -15F and 4x4 wouldn't engage anymore, I manually locked the hubs in, and turned the **** to 4x4 high. It took a bit to engage so I left the hubs locked in. This morning it was again -15F, the hubs are locked in I turned the **** to 4x4 High, and I received the warning light. What do I need to do with the hubs that are in the locked position to work?
Since you bought the truck used, there is no way to tell if any maintenace was done on the hublocks. Usually if the hubs are not going in because of temperature then there is moisture in the hubs or the wrong grease or too much on it. I know that people around here have problems because the wheel bearings and hubs should be a different type of grease.
I don't have any problem with my auto hubs even at -40 F. If there was a big problem we would hear from a lot owners.
It is a misconception that when you turn the hub dial to lock your hubs will lock. Turning the dial puts pressure on a spring that pushes the locking gear in to mesh, if the gear doesn't mesh your hub dial can ponit to lock but isn't. I believe that your hubs were locked the night before. Just because your hubs are locked, your transfer case has to re-syncronize and in a certain amount of time if it doesn't you get a warning.
To help you we need to know what the warning lights is or is it a message?
It is just my opinion that you have to have the hubs looked at. Then if the warning dosen't clear then you have two problems and the truck is going to have to be scanned.
FROM THE SERVICE MANUAL
Cluster indicators are controlled by the IC which interprets outputs from the 4X4 control module.
So, I can lock the hubs all winter and still switch between 2/4H/4L? Does that result in decreased mileage, reduced turning radius, etc? Sorry, this is my first vehicle with lockers and the owners manual sucks for explanations/concepts. Thanks!
So, I can lock the hubs all winter and still switch between 2/4H/4L? Does that result in decreased mileage, reduced turning radius, etc? Sorry, this is my first vehicle with lockers and the owners manual sucks for explanations/concepts. Thanks!
Yes you can leave them locked all winter. Will there be a mpg hit. Sure, but minimal if any. Remember the front axle and driveshaft are now turning all the time. So it takes a bit to move those parts too.
You should not notice any difference in turning radius as the transfer case is not engaged for the front wheels till you turn the switch.
...however the other day it got to -15F and 4x4 wouldn't engage anymore, I manually locked the hubs in, and turned the **** to 4x4 high. It took a bit to engage so I left the hubs locked in. This morning it was again -15F, the hubs are locked in I turned the **** to 4x4 High, and I received the warning light. What do I need to do with the hubs that are in the locked position to work?
Allow me to help, aillar. I highly suggest contacting your dealer for assistance. To locate the nearest, click on this: Ford Find a Dealer - Ford Cars, SUVs, Trucks & Crossovers | Ford.ca Also, pass on the model year and odometer reading; I'll check the available resources.
Alberta cold snap got me too. Buried in snow at the rig and I fire up to go home and 4x4 wont engage. I had to shovel out and as I am driving home I remember my manual hubs, so I pull over remove my aftermarket center caps and lock manually and I have instant 4x4.