One step forward, two steps back. Was ready to start installing new cab mount bushings, etc. and found the front Cab Mount Frame Wing on the left side is completely cracked on one side, and partially cracked on the other. Looks like there was a bolt in the top side at one time but it is gone also, so only one mounting bolt holding it. Anyone have a used one for sale?
The wing is attached with the hardened steel, rivets, for lack of a better word. Two are behind the clutch pedal, one looks to be behind the bracket that the brake cylinder is attached to. How hard are these rivets to grind off, as I do not have a cutting torch. If I have to take the clutch pedal off, it has a bolt holding it on, will it then just pry off or is it pressed on to the shaft? Am I going to have to completely disassemble the master cylinder and take off the bracket to get behind it.
I am hoping someone has done this with the cab on, and can give me some hints. If I have to buy a new wing, ouch, does the lower retainer shown in the catalogs, have to be welded to the wing or does it just set on top. Any help appreciated, I am now at a standstill, no sense putting the gas tank in until this is done.

 

I had same problem with mine. I ground the rivet head off enough to have a flat spot for drilling. They aren't any harder than a bolt. I drilled a small pilot hole thru it then gradually increased hole till I drilled the head off. Then punched out the stem.

Of course I had the cab off at the time which made it easier, but you should be able to do it with the cab installed. I took the wings to a local welding shop and they welded them up for me. I used Grade 8 bolts to install them back on the frame. Might have been overkill but I wasn't taking any chances.

The retainer just sits on wing. Check around your area..there is probably a welding shop that can weld the cracks for alot less than what they want to charge you for new wings.

 

Bummer, I would think that would be a challenge with the cab on. But everything is easier with the cab off.

When I removed my clutch pedal, I never removed it from the shaft. It does just press on once you remove the retaining bolt. Here is a clean picture of the end.



The rivets on the back side of the wing are behind the master cylinder bracket. If you can grind them off, you might be able to get behind it to hold the bolt. It will be tight though.
Here is a picture of the back side showing the master cylinder bracket.



I have never changed the mount out before and unfortunately don't have a spare, but I'm sure there are some guys around here that do. Hopefully the pictures help give you a little better idea of what you are in for. If you need any more just let me know.

 

Why not a weld job? Clamp the mount into position and get a good penetrating weld. I've done that.

 

As Ray suggests, welding is an option. I have welded a few (but never more than once per wing) with good results. Drill a hole at the end of the crack, "V" out the crack a bit to improve weld penetration, and give it a go.

This situation begs the question...does your frame still have the crossmember under the bellhousing in place? If not your problem may have arisen from an excess amount of flex in that area and should be corrected.

 

I welded both of my wings to the frame, eliminated the rivets all together


Anyone see any issues with that?

 

Thanks for the input. I imagine the first thing I will attempt is the drill out the rivets, hopefully I can get a straight shot with a drill while the cab is on. I don't have access to a welder, so would have to have someone come in and do it for me, as I have the cab loose and no gas tank in. I am not sure if welding the wing will even work, as one side is cracked the entire length and the other side has about a fourth of the corner completely broken loose. If it can be welded, I worry if the holes would all line up correctly. It almost appears that someone may have tried welding part of it before. Hesitate to weld it to the frame, in case it breaks again, I would then have a lot of grinding to get it off. Hate to spend the money, but I will probably get a new one and hope I can get the old one off without too much problem. It would be too much to ask for a easy problem, but I guess glad I discovered it now.

 

I would want to have the 'new' part available and on the way, on the bench or in my hand before I destroyed the old one. Not being sarcastic at all here, just have it available.

 

If you grind the head of the rivet in an X a cold chisel takes the remains off pretty quick then punch them out. Do you have any air tools? That makes it even easier. On most of the ones I've seen there is 2 bolts and 2 rivets.

 

I sent you a PM I have some of these

 

I have found one of the easiest ways to remove the rivets is to cut an X in the rivet head with a thin cutoff wheel in an angle grinder, like a bolt with 2 screwdriver slots. Now use a sharp cold chisel and large hammer to knock off each 1/4 of the head. They will come off fairly easily. Ues a drift punch near the shank size to punch out the rest of the rivet. Much easier and quicker than grinding or drilling.

 

That's kind of what I said too.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I worked on removing the Frame wing today. By using a combination of cutting, grinding, punch, and about every tool in my shop. I was able to get all the rivets out. The toughest was the bolt on top. Luckily, one was missing, and the other was loose. With the cab still on the only way I could get it off was get a reciprocal saw blade between the bracket and the frame and cut the bolt off. I think it is beyond getting a good weld on the small broken pieces.
Now, hopefully, I can get the new one on when it comes. Tricky part will be getting nuts on the backside of bolts, behind the master cylinder, clutch, brake, bracket. I hope to not have to take it apart.

 

Was able to get the cab wing bracket on without taking the clutch/brake pedal assbly apart. 4 bolts were installed in 10 min. The 2 behind the master cylinder bracket took me about an hour or more to get the nuts on, but I used self locking nuts so hopefully won't be a problem in the future. Cab is mounted and ready for the new gas tank. I noticed the door doesn't align or latch now, which doesn't surprise me so have some adjustment to do there. Took a little coaxing to get the rear cab mounts to the frame holes to align with the new rubber bumpers installed in the rear brackets. At least the cab no longer sets on the frame on that side, should ride much better.

 

Glad to hear you have it sorted out.